Milky oil and alcohol
#72
Senior Member
MASTER BUILDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Red Deer, AB Canada
Posts: 213
Originally Posted by hammertime
Boost # I assume is the vacuum ?
Why only to 6500rpms on dyno? Notice it falls off on a few them up high.
Did it blue the headers before or after the dyno ?
Why only to 6500rpms on dyno? Notice it falls off on a few them up high.
Did it blue the headers before or after the dyno ?
6500 RPM was the best it would do on the dyno pulls.
The headers were blue before the dyno runs. There didn't seem to be any change in color during the dyno session.
Heading to the track today. Wondering whether to shift on time or RPM??
#73
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Coldwater, MI
Posts: 2,998
Originally Posted by kod99
Originally Posted by hammertime
Boost # I assume is the vacuum ?
Why only to 6500rpms on dyno? Notice it falls off on a few them up high.
Did it blue the headers before or after the dyno ?
Why only to 6500rpms on dyno? Notice it falls off on a few them up high.
Did it blue the headers before or after the dyno ?
6500 RPM was the best it would do on the dyno pulls.
The headers were blue before the dyno runs. There didn't seem to be any change in color during the dyno session.
Heading to the track today. Wondering whether to shift on time or RPM??
#74
Senior Member
MASTER BUILDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Red Deer, AB Canada
Posts: 213
Originally Posted by hammertime
Originally Posted by kod99
Originally Posted by hammertime
Boost # I assume is the vacuum ?
Why only to 6500rpms on dyno? Notice it falls off on a few them up high.
Did it blue the headers before or after the dyno ?
Why only to 6500rpms on dyno? Notice it falls off on a few them up high.
Did it blue the headers before or after the dyno ?
6500 RPM was the best it would do on the dyno pulls.
The headers were blue before the dyno runs. There didn't seem to be any change in color during the dyno session.
Heading to the track today. Wondering whether to shift on time or RPM??
#75
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Coldwater, MI
Posts: 2,998
Always on time, feel its a bit more consistent that way
If you know the time # to start at its great, if not start with rpm until you know the time #. I've seen some be at 1.65 and some be at 2.65, converter, engine, shifters are all different.
If you know the time # to start at its great, if not start with rpm until you know the time #. I've seen some be at 1.65 and some be at 2.65, converter, engine, shifters are all different.
#76
Senior Member
MASTER BUILDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Red Deer, AB Canada
Posts: 213
Originally Posted by hammertime
Always on time, feel its a bit more consistent that way
If you know the time # to start at its great, if not start with rpm until you know the time #. I've seen some be at 1.65 and some be at 2.65, converter, engine, shifters are all different.
If you know the time # to start at its great, if not start with rpm until you know the time #. I've seen some be at 1.65 and some be at 2.65, converter, engine, shifters are all different.
I was runing it at 2 seconds with the old motor and it was working fine. I will start from there and experiment a bit today.
#77
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Coldwater, MI
Posts: 2,998
Originally Posted by kod99
Originally Posted by hammertime
Always on time, feel its a bit more consistent that way
If you know the time # to start at its great, if not start with rpm until you know the time #. I've seen some be at 1.65 and some be at 2.65, converter, engine, shifters are all different.
If you know the time # to start at its great, if not start with rpm until you know the time #. I've seen some be at 1.65 and some be at 2.65, converter, engine, shifters are all different.
I was runing it at 2 seconds with the old motor and it was working fine. I will start from there and experiment a bit today.
#79
Senior Member
MASTER BUILDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Red Deer, AB Canada
Posts: 213
To continue my saga:
First pass:
8.19 @ 161 mph - Max RPM: 6600
Nozzles: 41
Main pill: 90
Car ran well but sprayed oil out of the vacuum pump breather again. Estimate about a quart sprayed.
Disconnected vacuum pump and hooked up header evac system.
Changed oil. No milking of oil - no methanol in oil. Drained Vacuum breather tank. It was full.
Pass 2:
8.12 @ 163 mph - Max RPM: 6900
Nozzles: 41
Main pill: 90
Car ran better. Oil film inside of header collectors after run.
Changed main pill to 88.
Pass 3:
8.02 @ 165 mph - Max RPM: 7050
Nozzles: 41
Main pill: 88
Car ran even better. Very slight oil film inside of header collectors after run. Temp after run: 220.
Traction was a problem with 60 foot times around 1.19.
I think I may have the answer for the oil spray. Due to space restrictions, I had to mount the vacuum pump breather can above the engine and directly in the airflow. Could it be that the air rushing through the breather filter is creating a vacuum and pulling the oil out?
Should I build a shroud to put in front of the breather filter? Would that help?
On the dyno, very little oil was puked out of the exhaust hose from the vacuum pump. Maybe 2 tablespoons in 23 hits.
I kept the engine leaned out until I was ready to roll into the burnout box, then went full rich until the return road.
One footnote:
I pulled the chute for the first time. Everything worked great and I saved a lot of brakes. I will be pulling it regularly from now on.
First pass:
8.19 @ 161 mph - Max RPM: 6600
Nozzles: 41
Main pill: 90
Car ran well but sprayed oil out of the vacuum pump breather again. Estimate about a quart sprayed.
Disconnected vacuum pump and hooked up header evac system.
Changed oil. No milking of oil - no methanol in oil. Drained Vacuum breather tank. It was full.
Pass 2:
8.12 @ 163 mph - Max RPM: 6900
Nozzles: 41
Main pill: 90
Car ran better. Oil film inside of header collectors after run.
Changed main pill to 88.
Pass 3:
8.02 @ 165 mph - Max RPM: 7050
Nozzles: 41
Main pill: 88
Car ran even better. Very slight oil film inside of header collectors after run. Temp after run: 220.
Traction was a problem with 60 foot times around 1.19.
I think I may have the answer for the oil spray. Due to space restrictions, I had to mount the vacuum pump breather can above the engine and directly in the airflow. Could it be that the air rushing through the breather filter is creating a vacuum and pulling the oil out?
Should I build a shroud to put in front of the breather filter? Would that help?
On the dyno, very little oil was puked out of the exhaust hose from the vacuum pump. Maybe 2 tablespoons in 23 hits.
I kept the engine leaned out until I was ready to roll into the burnout box, then went full rich until the return road.
One footnote:
I pulled the chute for the first time. Everything worked great and I saved a lot of brakes. I will be pulling it regularly from now on.
#80
Senior Member
RACING JUNKIE
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Coldwater, MI
Posts: 2,998
We run the head mount on a few cars for the vaccum canister so I do not think that is a issue, but worth a try. You need a in car vacuum gauge to see whats its doing down track. I havent drained my vacuum canister in over a month and 75 runs.
There is no reason for you to run a 41 nozzel IMO, dynos always like more fuel, drop that to a 40 and I'd be shocked if it didnt run faster again.
I am same CI with more power and have no where near that much fuel, mine would be a slug with that much fuel.
Did I read right your water temp was 220 degrees after a run ?
Your gaining ground but from the dyno #'s I seen I thought it'd be a 7.70s player.
There is no reason for you to run a 41 nozzel IMO, dynos always like more fuel, drop that to a 40 and I'd be shocked if it didnt run faster again.
I am same CI with more power and have no where near that much fuel, mine would be a slug with that much fuel.
Did I read right your water temp was 220 degrees after a run ?
Your gaining ground but from the dyno #'s I seen I thought it'd be a 7.70s player.


