Most all stock front ends have at least 1" of stagger built in to them, meaning one tire is further forward than the other. The NHRA rule book allows for 1" variation in wheel base left to right in Pro Stock. The stagger gives the car more time in the start beam and will give a better 60' time and ET, exactly the same end result if you were to shallow stage but with more effect on ET and reaction time. I would caution on assuming that the front end after alignment is perfectly square and or perpendicular to the center line of the chassis, it's likely that it is not.
This is how we build / lay out, chassis cars and all the other chassis types as well. You must have the engine and trans perfectly squared to the car meaning perfect north and south regardless of drive train offset if used. If your car is built correctly and has the engine in it, you need to level the car the best that you can on 4 stands with shims about 18" high or less, high enough for you to get under it to measure etc. Now plumb bob down from the exact center line of the crank up front and make a mark on the floor. Then remove the drive shaft and plumb down from the tail shaft center line and mark the floor. Now you take a string connected to a cylinder head or something heavy on both ends then line up the string exactly over the two marks you just transfered to the floor going past the rear bumper with your string. Now you have a perfect refrence to the chassis. Now with the tires off and rear end hanging on the shocks with out pre load, you plumb bob off the front or rear of the axle hub doing both the same way and transfer the mark to the floor with tape and a sharp pen like you did with the engine center line. The pinion had better be exactly over the string that you have pulled under the car. Now you can make a scribe out of a tig welding rod or two taped together to make a fixed dimension scribe. you can sharpen one end of one rod then put a bend about 1.5" from the sharpened end on a right angle, this is the pivot end of your scribe. Now you take the other rod and bend it about 4" from the end on a right angle but make it point the opposite way as the pointed end, this end will have a pen taped to it so the business end ( ink end) is pointing the same way as the sharp end on the other piece of rod. Tape the two rods together to make a scribe a foot or more longer than 1/2 your wheel base. Now take the sharp end and put it exactly over one axle end that you transfered to the floor and swing and arc crossing the string forward and behind the axle centerline. I use tape on the floor to mark easeier. Now you go to the other side and you are hoping to get both sides to cross exactly over the string or at least the same distance from the string if there is an offset in your drive line. If you can see any difference in the distance each end is from the string it is worth fixing. If you are within .030" that would be OK, but is .030" off of correct. When you do this you will have the satisfaction knowing how square your car is and how to get it that way. This may seem complex on the surface but is real basic stuff, you will realize, after you do it once and wrap your mind around the task. This takes a little time but there is not a short cut to checking the squareness of your chassis.