zipper06

Yep all they are, are 2 pressure gages, one for input of the 100lbs air, hook a hose to the opposite gage, then hook that to the valve body infeed, open the gage and the difference between one gage and the other is the amount of leakdown, adjust the barrel valve until you are reading 80lbs. Start there. Once i have that reading and fire the car up, i keep backing it down until it burps when you crack the throttle, i then start cranking it up 2 flats at a time until it doesn't burp.
I then take another leakdown reading and i know exactly what the leakdown is and what the system likes. I know that James Monroe (from Rons), likes another method and i'm sure it works, i just haven't tried it. He sets the barrel valve for good response, then comes up on the converter to see how high it will stall. He then backs it down about a 1/2 turn and again checks how high it will stall, then goes the opposite way and checks the stall. Then picks an adjustment to the highest stall.
Once you have that setting correct the milking will not be bad at all unless you let it idle a lot. I also drive to the staging area with the shutoff valve half open too put heat in the motor.
On the hilborn stacks, i run an idle bypass set at 15lbs, the idle bypass closes off at 15/20% throttle.


JMO

Zip.
Mine is set on 17% because that's what it likes