What I do:
Using a new set I do not soak them in oil in first. Leave the internal dry so the little pintle valve can be pushed against it's spring. Note that you can squeeze the oil out of a pumped up set to do this method if need be.
Coat the outside of course. If the manifold is off makes it a little easier. When you tighten the rocker nut you can see/feel where the pushrod is just beginning to push the lifter slug down. (This is essentially the same thing the tech was telling you but without the lifter being pumped up you get a better feel for what's happening).
Then do your 1/4 turn or whatever turn you like. If you have your doubts about your setting being too tight just push down on the pushrod. There should be movement left before it bottoms out. No movement means you went too far.
Rotate and move through the firing order at each TDC accordingly.
Then rotate and prime the engine until oil comes through all of the rockers. No oil? Keep going. This can take a while and it must be rotated for all the oil holes to line up and pass the oil through. All Done. This method rarely needs readjusting but if it does follow the deal that follows.
Old time honored way:
After the engine is running you can always pull the valve cover, slow the idle down and one by one go through and loosen each one at a time until it rattles, tighten until the noise goes away, then the 1/4 turn. Note that this only works on a car that is not too noisy. :lol:
If it still runs like doo doo, then you have other problems.
One more thing. If the owner thinks his quasi race engine should be as quiet as grandma's Buick he is going to continue to be disappointed. However, if he has sheet metal steel or aluminum valve covers they will amplify the noise. Thick cast aluminum covers will dampen the noise considerably.
Does this thing have oil restrictors by chance? That will aggravate your noisy lifter problem most likely.
Dave Koehler
www.koehlerinjection.com