Very good advice from both Ed and Bill, total seals are not the best way to go with a blown engine.
If you call total seal they wil try to sell you their nitrous total seal set at about $260.00, but you are much better off with their stainless top ring file fit set, or a good plasma molly set.
There's also a big myth that more boost makes more power, that's just not the case. IE: example, you can take a 350" motor making 350HP and put 10lbs of boost into it driving the blower at (1 to 1) and you will gain roughly 150hp. You can then take the same motor and put a good set of free flowing heads and a higher lift longer duration cam in it, with a lot of attention being paid to the exhaust flow, and incorperate a good set of zoomies 2 1/8" or 2 1/4", again driving the blower (1 to 1) the boost will drop to 6 to 8 lbs. but the engine will then produce about 600hp with a lot less wear and tear on the rotating assembly.
I also have/had a blown 358" alcohol engine until i melted down a piston and cracked the block. I melted it down because i wasn't running down nozzles and it could not be properly tuned without them. I've been running blowers for over 40 yrs and knew better. I run a Littlefield 1471 and a Buzzard Catcher. I know it's over kill but i can put 30lbs in the engine and not even turn it 1 to 1, that keeps the heat down which makes more power. In fact the motor went 4.62 in a 2600lb door car, before it melted down. It's going back together as a 383" (with down nozzles and going into an 1800lb Anglia when the Anglia is finished. All i have to do then look under my FAT belly and see if i have the Gonads to drive it.
I've know Mert Littlefied and Ralph Gore for over 20 yrs. and when i talked to him about restripping the blower and told him of the melt down he laughed and called me a dummy, because he knew i knew better than to not run down nozzles.
Just my .02
Zip.