Ford 9" Pinion/yoke leak
 

My Ford 9" is leaking a little from the pinion seal. Since my car is in the air I was thinking to get the seal replaced. Can I remove the yoke/pinion and change seal with out pulling out third member and measuring back lash? Or does the complete third member have to come out to do it right?

you should be fine just pulling the yoke off with the shield where
the seal is, i have changed the bearings and race and replaced
the shims and it was right on mark, so your not messing with
the shims or bearings the new seal should set with the correct
lbs., good luck :wink:

Ya gonna need ya one hell of an impact wrech with a good air compressor.

1st Yoke i ever changed out i tought i was gonna be a SUPERMAN and turn the Nut off with a breaker bar....NOT !..Broke everything loose but the Yoke Nut.... :shock:

oh yea impact makes it real easy, the first rear i busted was a
10 blt and i used a breaker bar and i swear i almost lifted the car
and then the scream of the nut, i stood on the bar. but now a
impact makes it easy and yea plenty of air, the impact also will
give the most torque instead of doing it by hand, good luck :wink:

I was actually checking it out and the pinion yoke has a 1/4" gap between the lip and the seal surface. I know it's not suppose to touch the seal but shouldn't it be closer?

I have limited space under the car with only jackstands. I am probably gonna find a shop with a lift. I might have to pay for this one. I am doing a complete brake job. There was crazy gunk in the rear brake system and I don't know where it was coming from wheel cylinders or axle seals. I completetly degreased and changed wheel cylinders. I am going to road test it and see if I still have leaks possibly from axle seals. If it continues to leak I have to open the rear and completely go through it.

PS-the funky painted parts were on the car when I got it.

http://static.racingjunk.com/63/ui/3...7127673122.jpg

no i think thats correct for it to spin, but always check for specifications to
have a solid rear, on that you will have to remove the cap that
retains the seal, check with NAPA for the seal, i have seen it
sold in rebuild kits, and that impact will make it go smooth :wink:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ch/index.shtml
http://www.tomsdifferentials.com/catalog.asp?pg=73

one other thing that comes to mind here..look at the threads and how far they go down thru the pinion yoke..if your threads stop on the top side of the pinion yoke you will need a spacer...

i am just hoping someone didn't put that yoke on without checking the pinion threads coming thru the yoke..when you pull it off please check this..it could explain why the 1/4 spacing is there..the yoke could be playing forward without the shim in place...the shim is about 1/4 inches exactly..

let us know.


and when you go to put that yoke back on,,give her a good thick layer of loctight red and hammerback down

Brian

I have to do the same thing to mine soon...only it's a 12 bolt. I hate messing with rearend stuff but I also get sick of putting oil in it. ..not to mention the smell of gear oil in the garage when it leaks.

My girl friend thinks I smell Macho with 90wt in my hair :D :D

You have to be careful putting it back together if it has a crush sleeve for pinion bearing preload. Most of the time when I set up a rear for racing I use a solid spacer and/or shims for pinion bearing preload. If that has the crush sleeve in it when you tighten the pinion nut you can put too much preload on the pinion bearings and they will fail.