Headers and Steering Shaft problem.
 

This may not be the right place to ask this but I need an answer. I have a 3rd gen camaro that be put a big block in. When I bought the car I was told the headers that came with the car would clear the steering shaft. Well it doesn't. I can't afford 1500 Lemon's headers to resolve it. Is there any other way without spending big bucks to clear the headers?

I'm sure somebody with some camaro experience will post soon, but this is what I used on my truck.



http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/Steering.jpg

Re: Headers and Steering Shaft problem.
 

how about some pics of what your working with

make your own. it aint all that hard to do....

Headers
 

How many tubes interfere?

I put a BBC in a Chevette and used Camaro headers, only modifying 2 tubes. Just bought a couple U-Bends and cut out what I needed. I fitted it, tacked it together and then had a good Tig welder finish it up for me.

Probably the easiest is to install a Vega steering box. That's the usual way around all this . . .

Be careful if you plan to modify existing headers. Carefully check all the other gremlins too (plug clearance, height/ pan clearance, steering box, filter area, etc...) before you commit to alter them much... in case you get too invested in something you may not end up liking. Are they nice headers?

The headers are ok. I got them with the car. They have been coated so they look ok. There is absolutly no room to fab a new tube for the front header. The cage extends all the way to the front of the chassis. The steering shaft rubs against the headers and makes it impossible to turn the wheel. I was thinking about turning down the steering shaft on a lathe.

NO NO NO NO NO !
NEVER compromise safety and especially in your steering hardware ! Reroute the shaft or do some else . NEVER reduce the size of your shaft ! :shock:

i was thinking the same thing....! pics will really help us to see what layout and come up with safe ideas .... just sayin :wink:

Can't remember who, off the top of my head, but there is somebody that makes a cable style shaft, that might help you.

Something similar to these came on some Pinto R&P systems.

You're better off with a shaft style steering setup, if you have much deflection to get around the headers. Again, the Vega box sits under the left front corner of the engine and is usually fairly easy to get a shaft to.

Remember, most of the contemporary GM cars have a steering shaft that turns almost straight down at the firewall and then turns again (U-Joints) to angle into the steering box. Hardest part is locating the intermediate "Spherical bearings" and their supports . . .

Shouldn't be much of a mountain for a climber . . .

Flexible steering shafts are like Throttle cables, if you can use a mechanical type, or linkage, do it. It's a whole lot more bulletproof in the end . . .


But there are instances . . . .

I took a couple pics of the area but they don't really show anything.. I'm going to put the car on my lift Thursday and get a better view of what I'm working with. BTW, I don't think the steering shaft is stock.

I am going to explore the Vega option.

45 and 90 degree knuckles. They are used all the time for this reason.

Never having done this before, tell me if I'm on the right track: Somewhere along the steering shaft, it will have to be cut and the 90 degree knuckle attached, then attach the 45 degree to the 90 degree and run the shaft to the steering box. Is this close?

I do not know what you need for your exact specification measurement. But yes the knuckles are used in conjunction to achieve the geometery angles you need. ..google it up.

You can have the shaft cut and splined with set allen screws to make it safe.

Drill holes and use bolts with Nylocks. You might have to take it apart sometime.

You also might watch to see, on a 60° plus joint, how much slack you need for it to work back and forth on the shaft. Don't bolt or weld one end of the shaft so that it can move laterally if need be . . Anytime you're over 45° with a U-Joint there's a natural tendency to bind, so don't booby trap it . .

Also, on your intermediate shaft, support it with a bearing or two. (depending upon length of run) You can use Hiem Joints as "rabbit" showed or other types, but you will need something to keep the intermediate shaft from flopping or creating a bind at the sharpest degree joint.