troubles puilling harmonic balancer
 

I'm on my second day trying to pull my balancer I have center bolt and washer removed as I have done a hundred times. It's a ATI super damper. when I installed new it went on a little hard. last year when I replaced lifter rollers I honed balancer for a better fit. now when pulling I think it moves just a wee bit the only thing I think it can be is a messed up key has anyone had a key bend or twisted

Did you hone it to size or just a guess to where it went on easier? If you honed it to big it can actually weld itself to the crank so to speak. if and when you get it off you will probably see marks on the crank snout and inside the dampner. Good luck. Oh don't ask how I know this. :oops:

Ok I bet your right. but how did your friend so to speak get his off. it moves 16th in and out but that's as far as it goes

Yep i have seen that happen twice. and both times, it took the old heat wrench, to remove them.

Try this . . Take a propane torch and heat the crank snout to about 175° or so. LET IT COOL. Put on your puller, apply a little tension.

Then take a can of "Air" and cool the damper. The expansion of the previous heating and then cooling of both pieces will cause them to "Shrink" slightly away from each other, and if you just keep tension on your puller, it ought to come off fairly easily.

A word of advice about the "Fire Scissors" or the Rosebud. When heating a piece of metal, whether it's Iron or Aluminum or anything in between, anything over about 200° of heat applied to metal is just a waste of BTUs unless you're gonna cut it off. 90% of the expansion of a metal object is achieved at that temperature. Anything more will generally affect the hardness or temper of the metal.

And, generally, if you have to heat it to loosen it, it needs to be cool to touch before you start twisting on it with a wrench or other device. You expand it and then shrink it. That's the loosening process.

Had same problem with ATI balancer. Used same technique as roadkill described but for the cooling I used a can of do it yourself AC refridgerent from auto zone.. Slipped right off with 1/3rd effort.

I ended up cutting balancer off I wasn't going to reuse it after all the trouble Ive had! I just want to thank all you guys for input

well I knew I should have posted the right way on here. first you tie a rope around the bal. then you tie block to truck then you tie bal. to big tree, then you put truck ingear and go forward,fast. then you pick up pieces. of said truck or tree. and you are good to go.

lmao... works all the time :wink:

Never saw a Damper pulled that way but I have seen the old guys way back when, straightening the frame on a car or truck that had been in a wreck that way . . . Biiiiiiggg Cottonwood tree! Heavy Chain . . .

Using a motorcycle would make it a lot more challenging and fun the watch!! :wink:

This stuff works great for cooling something down. It can be used to cool / freeze a really small area if needed.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/shf-pc-c/overview/

I have done it myself a few times.pulled the frame out on a 63 chevy 2 and when we took it to get it lined up the guy told us it was already good to go!!! the others still chased their own tailites..! lol

I've tied several down to the railroad tracks that went behind a friends shop and used an old high lift jack or porta power to straighten the frames.

I miss those days!! LOL. It seams like it was more fun working with nothing to get something done.

That was back when "IMAGINATION" was a requirement to do much to an automobile in the way of modification(s) . . We either didn't have the tool or couldn't afford it . . .

The old guy who showed me many things about collision repair always maintained that the same tree that "Bent" the car could be used to straighten it out . .

Of course, that was back when tolerances were a quarter inch, plus or minus . .

dampner
 

u surely used never seize on it didnt u >???,,,ati is junk anyways,along with fluid dampner,which r used for breaking crank snouts off,,,, :D

Re: dampner
 

Never seize ? is that same as anti-seize ? Just picking at ya on that part. However Anti-seize is more suitable. The same as calling a Bullet Proof vest bullet proof..really no such thing it should be call BULLET RESISTANT VEST. Same with anti-seize it resist heat but not 100% in all cases. Enough heat will break down the anti-seize properties and seize up. I have whitnessed it 1st hand. As far as ATI... its NOT a bad product as with anything different choices for different applications as with a Fluid damper.

I do not think the man was asking for opinions on his equipment. Gripes me when I see this.

Hey, Hey . . no need to turn this into a garden of assholes.

All of our opinions are generally gained from personal experience, but they are opinions. I try to be ojective, but in no way is "My way the only way" . . Nor is "My Part the only part" . . .

The "Galling problem" has little to do with the type or Brand and everything to do with the fact that it had to move in one direction or another to Gall either the shaft or the hole in the damper. My bet is the practice of "Honing" or making the hole bigger (or the shaft smaller) so that it can be put on easier. Add a little electrolysis and/or corrosion and you have a problem.

But it shouldn't be any kind of mountain for a climber. If you want a real damper/pulley pulling problem, remove the damper pulley from an old tapered snout Cummins diesel crank . . that's an exercise . .