gearing for the 1/4 mile
 

sbc should make 450-475 hp at the fly wheel
looking to go through the traps at 6800 to 7000 rpms
3700 lbs er so
3000 stall for now gonna bump it up to 3800
th 350
29 tall tire
right now i have 4.88's
looking for the "ideal" gear ratio for the 1/4 mile

Here try this site. it will give you lots of awnsers.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

cool thanks!

To all you racers out there, no matter what you race . . The Wallace Link is a mandatory tool in your tool box . . If you dont use it, start . . It's a great source of information and a better tool.

thanks for the info on that calculater sight.never heard of it before.sure does save tons of time just trying ti fiqure out something!!!!!

hotrod........U dont hav enuf converter for that tire an gear,,,,up it to a 5200 stall minimum maybe more expecially with the weight of car,ur not hitten the tire hard enuf with ur present stall,,, :shock:

wallace racing info
 

Thanks great site and info.....!!!!!

its driven on the street too 5200 is a little much isnt it?

Can't be any worse than those 4.88's on the street....

yes its way too much...the calculator is on a broad guideline its not 100% sometimes not even close...it has no way of knowing how your engine performs or transfers hp/tq thru the chassis to the rear tires...the traction itself leaves a big question Mark ?? even the brand of tires could throw off the formula.Just too many variables for it to be accurate...trust me I have seen guys run much slower and faster ET'S and Mph's then the calculator shows they should have run.. etc...


If you put a 3,000 rated converter in your 3700 lb car its probably gonna have a little more flash to it. it also has a lot to do with your camshaft.

If you have not purchased your converter yet...Do not purchase an off the shelf converter..

You need to call and have a converter built to the specs of your engine, rear end ratio's etc...


If your stuff is already together 4.88 gear etc... go and run it now and see what its turning thru the traps in high gear.

YOUR NOT AND I REPEAT YOUR NOT gonna slap off the shelf parts in there and run on the numbers...trust me on this and save yourself a bunch of $$$ and headache..do it right the 1st time...all its gonna cost you is a little more time a research

Good advice I have a off the shelf converter and I think it kills my et. I should have had one built for the car.

well mines not a off the shelf converter. hell i got it out from under the shelf 5 yrs ago!!!!

lol....Shoot OUTLAW back about 30 years ago when ' Auto Shack" was around...I bought an Off the shelf Alliance camshaft (282/450 lift I think) and anti pump up lifters...Found me a polished tunnel ram with a pair of 465 holleys...bolted all of it on...just lined up the cam Dots ( No degreeing) and the 71 camaro would run like a scalded dog ( pump gas)..4.11 gears and a TQ converter out of a Vega turbo 350 from the junk yard ( No money for a real stall converter lol)..back then you could find 300hp ( double hump) iron heads everywhere..found me a pair under a mans trailer half buried in dirt..took them to NAPPA store decked them 10 thousandths to clean up surface. regular valve job nothing fancy..put screw in studs in the heads..didn't know anything about piston to valve clearance ( just got luckey) The car on re-cap tires ( very popular back then) thru the mufflers/footbraking would run 7.60's in the 1/8th at 92 mph..I would say without a doubt straight headers a transbrake and slicks the car would have run some high 6.90's.......all cheap off the shelf stuff....Just got lucky and hit the right combo. I was 17 or so....I was outrunning older guys that had Tons of money in their set ups.. I drove this car to High school every day. Street racing is a No-No These days but back then we would meet on a desserted road far out of town after Mid-night (no-one around) and have several races for $100-$200 and many bragging rights..we ran from a dead stop and many times from a roll

Just luck of the draw on the set up....best time of My life !

Ya work with what ya got or can afford . . . And although I love the Wallace Calculators, if it could be done on paper, we wouldn't need cars . .

I could just put all the combinations down. Pick out what I wanted to do and run the numbers.

Just like fantasy football or baseball, then I could be a "Winner" . .

Racing of Automobiles doesn't seem to work out that way because there's too many variables that get in the way of the sure thing mathematically . .

While the calculator is a good place to start . . The race track is still the only place to prove what you've done will work.

Or to find out what won't . .

I should've said it will give you lots of info instead of awnsers.

thanks guys....ive just got an off the shelf converter now i was looking to go to a 4000 stall cause i need more stall for sure .....we still do some street racing around my little town out where there's no one around and even now ill out run guys with tons more money stuck into there car and the look on their face is priceless when they get waxed by a broke kid

sometimes you stumble on the right combo by accident...My advise if ya wanna be fast/Quick on the street from a dead ( and I don't condone street racing)

A tight,tight converter a 3.08 gear for a 3500 lb car..a engine that can stand the Nitrous up to 300hp....You can build a static Hp SBC with 350hp...slam it with a 250-300 SHOT of nitrous out of the hole...if it doesn't spin great...if it does spin get a progressive...I promise you I done this 30+ years ago and hammered a lot of a$$....you get a high gear and a converter you will not drive thru and hold the button down on a 250-300hp shot out of the hole...you gonna hurt some feelings...I PROMISE YOU.


Myself and several of my buddies with back then a $2,500 dollar street car out ran many $50,000+ pro street blown Nitrous or whatever they brought...you gotta remember the mind set back then for many was put a lot of gear and stall...yeah it looked good black tracking but we killed them hooking.

We ran SBC with a 300hp Fogger a 2.90ish gear and turbo 400...in a 73 camaro...would be on the button as soon as the flagman dropped his hands..it would not spin a bit..and I mean hooking up and hauling a$$.

back then we did not have auto timing retard systems..we took out the timing by hand and timing light


I run a similar set up today on the track 30+ years later...I run a 10.5 outlaw car..3,000lbs with 33 inch tall 10.5 tires...a custom NOS tight converter and a 3.60 gear....
Best car has run is a 4.68et @156 mph.....its the same principle as I explained above.


just keep in mind you can;t have your cake and eat it to..if you gonna go the route I explained your gonna be deadly consistant and Very Fast on the street..your gonna look faster then you really are cause your gonna hook it up....but just driving around off the GAS...Its gonna be a slug.



you will be shocked How that BEOOOTCH will come alive on a 45 mph roll when you dump the NOS.....if you got a high enough gear and tight enough converter you will let off way before it finds its top out..

A lot of people think you have to have a converter so tight it's a complete turd on motor. I had Alan Pope build me a nitrous converter that's good for a 300 and works really good motor alone. Yea. it's a tad tight for motor, but nothing like my big nitrous converter is.
A good converter guy can make you one that's a good combo, but nothing is perfect for both. A small shot of nitrous is the cheapest hp you can buy and small shots are really simple to tune and use.

Heres my numbers on motor vs a 250 shot in 1/8th. Same track same day back to back passes

Motor - 1.33 60 ft 5.80-5.84 ET 126 mph
250 shot- 1.10 60ft 4.95-4.97 ET 144 mph

Again my combo is built all or nothing on nitrous side. . pretty much a slug on motor compared to the Nitrous pass.

I made a pass last weekend and by stupidity I didn't have my nitrous controller turn on. Talking about a turd. I got tired of riding it took so long to get to the end of the track! lol
There is a fine line for sure and I'm like you now BJ, it's a bunch of nitrous or NOTHING!

Well Rabbit as you know from our conversations in the past I run 250 1st hit and 350 on 2nd hit. about 600 total. . The 2nd hit is only good for 2 tenths.

I will say somthing about Nitrous. Just because a certain jetting says it produces 250hp. This is guesstimation. Depending on your set up (engine and Nitrous)
It may produce way more or little less. The Tq curve is so radical with nitrous its hard to say. There have been some radial TQ numbers put up on dyno with nitrous

I am a 100% firm believer if you build the right Nitrous combo not trying to save anything for motor...the nitrous motor will respond aggressive to a small hit of nitrous.

So yes Rabbit if Im gonna run a Nitrous motor is 100%. She will be a slug on motor but when you light the guns she will go crazy.

Funny you mention that BJ. A friend and I were just talking about my last motor / set up and you are 100 % correct. Last motor responded almost unreal to a small shot and would fly for what it was, but I wanted to go faster :roll:
I run 1st stage 36/26 (350hp estimated) 2nd stage 32/24 (300hp estimated) and 3rd is a 26/22 (200 hp est.).

I still haven't turned on the 2nd stage (and not even thinking about the 3rd for a while) since I burnt 2 sets of pistons in 2 months lol.


http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...Spareparts.jpg

Can you say FAT! lol

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...48/Number4.jpg

Guys would say 50 to 100 hp shot of nitrous be safe for my sbc. Without hurting it??Im running flat tops. :roll: