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Cooling issue help needed....
Looking for any advice to help with my cooling issues. I have a blown BBD in my 1964 Belvedere. I only have 6 PSI max boost with 28 degrees total timing (pump gas). I run a 2 row 31X19 split tank/ cross flow rad ( http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...52039/10002/-1 )with dual 12" flexalite fans ( http://www.jegs.com/i/Flex-a-lite/400/575/10002/-1 ), CSR waterpump and a high flow 160 thermostat. The car is fine driving down the road but as soon as I get stuck at a set of lights, the temp starts to creep up. I'll go till I hit 200 degrees then have to pull over, shut off the engine, and let the water pump and fan cool the car (2-4 min to get back to 150). Our outside temps here don't get much more than 70 degrees out side so its not like I am trying to cruise in Vegas. I'm thinking maybe to install a chiller under the blower to help, but not sure if that would even work... Anyone out there have any suggestions???? -Thanks!
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Since it runs cool on the highway, and only heats up at low speed or at a stop, it looks like air flow is the cause of the problem. Lack of shrouding around the fans is the most common cause of low speed heat.
Rob |
Originally Posted by Robstclair
Since it runs cool on the highway, and only heats up at low speed or at a stop, it looks like air flow is the cause of the problem. Lack of shrouding around the fans is the most common cause of low speed heat.
Rob i never had good luck with the split rads like that...... :( |
Cooling
Do you have any restictions to air flow in front of the radiator?
Air conditioning coils or trans oil cooler coils in front of radiator will reduce clean air flow thru radiator. Fans on back side of radiator pulling air thru, not on front pushing air? What pressure radiator cap? Losing any coollant to recovery tank? Antifreeze or straight H2O? Water wetter? |
Thanks for all the input. Heres some more info for you guys...
-Air pulls through the rad -Water with a bottle of water wetter -160 degree high flow thermostat -front of rad is wide open with absolutely no blockages -Only shroud is the one around the dual fans -13 lbs rad cap -no coolant in the overflow tank One thing to note is that the case of the blower is polished and once the temperate starts to climb it will retain heat for hours....That is why I was wondering about a chiller. |
I've had experiences where the coolant was going through the radiator TOO fast and not cooling ENOUGH, hence exponentially increasing temps. Installed a smaller restricter or higher temp thermostat and cured the prob.
:oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: I have also installed the fans on the front and they were pullers and not pushers...... :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: |
You need to put antifreeze in.
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I would love to run antifreeze but my daughter runs the car at our local racetrack and they don't allow antifreeze.... :(
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Originally Posted by Birddog95
I would love to run antifreeze but my daughter runs the car at our local racetrack and they don't allow antifreeze.... :(
you running an electric pump or mechanical? any pics? |
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From one Mopar guy to another, NICE !
That big old flat airdam of a front motor plate COULD be hindering efficient airflow within the engine room at low speed or dead stop, literally creating an 'air dam'. With the car in motion, airflow under the car is helping to draw air out of the engine bay, which ain't happening at low speed. Have you tried removing the hood and seeing what happens then ? |
Originally Posted by DrivingMissDD
That big old flat airdam of a front motor plate COULD be hindering efficient airflow within the engine room at low speed or dead stop, literally creating an 'air dam'. With the car in motion, airflow under the car is helping to draw air out of the engine bay, which ain't happening at low speed.
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Coupla things . . Put a 180° thermostat in it . . 160 is awfully cold for a performance engine.
And, dunno where you're at geographically, but 28° of timing sounds like it might be retarded enough at lower speeds to be heating . . With a Blower motor I'd be running somewhere around 32° minimum total . . . Unless the Distributor is locked out . . A quick way to check your system and radiator is to take the temp at the thermostat housing and the top of the radiator. Should be within 10-15 degrees of the thermostat temp setting. Then check the temp at the bottom Radiator hose or Tank . . Should be no more than 140°. If it is, either the coolant is flowing through the radiator too fast to be cooled efficiently or you don't have enough radiator . . However, generally, with a standard water pump, this is a condition that shows at speed and at idle or low speed the temp should go down . . just the reverse of your problem. Another "Dumb" thing to look at is the Water Pump Pulley. Too small and the car heats at speed, too big and it'll heat at low speeds or idle . . Back to water flow through the radiator. Had this problem with a Blown Street Rod . . that's why I'm bald now . . . |
Just an opinon from a circle track guy... we always have heat issues and have learned a lot about controlling them.
Run 1 to 1 pulleys, and a 28 to 32 lb rad cap. We turn 8K or more down the straights without any problems losing hp, and we can still stay cool during the numerous cautions even if standing still. JMHO.. |
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