400 sbc
 

guys-i just got a 400 sbc in on a trade in very nice shape--the block numbers are 330817

IT WAS COMPLETE-TOP TO BOTTOM CARB/AIR CLEANER/PANS/PUMPS/STARTER/AND AUTOMATIC FLYWHEEL

i have not pulled the pan or valve covers yet[it was running before it was removed
??? good to build and ideas[street and strip]
the good/ the bad /and the ugly?????


thanks LIVELY

Its Junk! No good! Let me know your address and i will come take it off your hands free of charge

Good find to make a hot rod engine out of. Add a set of 5.7 rods, better pistons and a nice set of heads and it will be a stout street cruiser

The good is they are torque monsters for a stock small block.

The bad is the blocks are prone to failure at higher power levels.

they have cast iron cranks and short rods.

They make fun street engines. As was said if you are gonna run it hard buy pistons for the 5.7 rods. The stock rods are 5.565. The 5.7 rods are the "regular" sbc rod length. Many people will say they run hot but I have never had a problem at all with the 2 that I had. My dad has one in his el camino and it doesn't heat up either..that's a myth.

They are o'k i've got one in my Malibu (377") also got one on the engine stand 406" flattops 5.565 rods, street motor, all forged both engines, i've ran them for yrs., (BAD) weak cylinder walls, i'm running 14 to 1 6"rods in the 377" and i've done that many times. My choice would be a Dart blk, but i haven't had any problems with the 400 blk.

JMO

Zip.

I ran a 400 block in my Vega. It was a 377 with 6 inch rods and 12 to 1 pistons. Never had a problem after I found a good block. The first one I found had a crack in the lifter valley. I'd recommend that you have it magna-fluxed to be sure it is good. The machinist I use said they tended to have more probems with cracks when compared to the other SBC. If you keep them filled with coolant, they will live. There is a little grinding required on the pan rail when you go with a longer rod. I think they are a pretty solid foundation for up to 700 hp. I later went with a 400 crank and it felt better at the bottom end from the additional torque.

Built that 422 C.I with the same block.Making about 658 fly....4 years still going.matter of fact this past winter it was just finally freshened with a set of rings and bearings.
This is my old wagon with 422 I built still in it and running on the stops.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XT_S...eature=related

It was splayed capped ,filled with crete to the bottom on the water pump holes and the usual machine work,line bored hone,square decked with plugs,etc..
I'd build another. :wink:

GREAT VIDEO OF A GREAT LITTLE VEGA :lol: :lol: :lol:

Thanks.I miss it dearly,I get to see it on a reg. basis at my local track. :cry:
Not bad for someone who desnt know how to adjust valves.. :wink:

Nice video. Still like those Vegas.

The 400 small block is a great motor if a few things are done. You with out a doubt need 5.7 rods, and little grinding is needed, but not much. You also need to drill steam holes in the heads, this is easy though, just line up your gasket, mask, take gasket away, and drill. you can get really good power down low, with a good, smart cam, head combo this thing will make crazy power>

i agree, mostly a damm good street fighter, not strong for the strip,
just put a corvette motor in it :lol: :lol: :shock:

They can be quite the big motor at the strip if you build it right.

How much money did/do you have in that block after all that?

650.00 in machine work and 100 bucks in the caps.

I have built a couple 406 and I am not saying everyone should buy an aftermarket block, but for the sake of discussion....

in your case you seem to have built the thing to survive some power

A 400 block around here will cost ya about $300 or so. So unless you have a block for free you will end up with a grand in a block that has a bad reputation for failure. My uncle lost 2 engines in 2 years from the factory 400 block failing...(although his wasn't filled )

He ended up buying a Dart SHP block. He would have been money way ahead if he would have started with the good block.

--I GOT THE COMPLETE RUNNING ENGINE FOR AROUND $100 IN THE TRADE--SO REALLY I CAN'T LOSE ON THE DEAL 8)

By all means if you have the money for an SHP block get it.But,if you check the block for core shift,wall thickness and it turns out usable,I'd build another.I've seen failures on 350 block also.Yes agreed, if the person with the block knows anything about what it is it wil cost you at least 300.Trick IMO is finding a GOOD core block to start with.Also wouldnt use a 4 bolt 400 block myself unless its under 500 hp/6500 rpm.Most just take it to the machine shop,get it machined and put it together with fingers crossed.I clearanced the block myself.I also put a CNC motorsports eagle blem crank in it,used set of h-beams from another motor.Only thing that cost was the j.e. pistons that went it it.Freinds camaro ran a 400 block for 7 years without failure and it was built by B.E.S. Finally,it was worn enough to warrant a shp block.But it didnt blow up.Bored to the max it finally cracked a wall and let alittle water into the cylinder.Temps where unstable and he knew there was a problem.

I so far have had no problems with my 600hp 4 bolt main 400 that i have been racing for the last 3 years.But i know it's coming.

My uncles was in a dirt track stock car. They run methanol.He used that engine for 2 or 3 years no issues.Freshened it up and upped the compression a little and the first or second race split the cylinder wall.The second one blew up so it is hard to say exactly what went first, but a chunk of the main webbing came out with the main cap.