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BBC 496 BUILD
HI GUYS! FIRST OFF THANKS FOR THE ADVICE, I REALLY NEED SOME :lol: I HAVE A 454 OUT OF A 2000 CHEVY TRUCK CASTING 10237297 I WAS THINKING OF GOING WITH A 496 BUILD DOES ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THESE BLOCKS?? WILL THIS BE A GOOD BLOCK TO USE. ITS GOING INTO A STREET CAR BUT I'M LOOKING TO GET ANYTHING IN THE 500 HP ++ RANGE IF POSSIBLE?? IF SO DO ANYONE HAVE ANY PARTS RECONMENDATIONS. ALSO I WANT TO GO WITH SOME AFTERMARKET HEADS. ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED GREATLY THANKS!!!
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http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=103118
If all you want is 500 HP, I'd save the money and leave it a 4" stroke. They were cranking out 500HP BBCs in the 60s from the factory. |
Looks like we have someone just beginning to start dreaming about 500 HP.
If he goes to the track once or twice, he'll change his mind..... To answer your question regarding a 500 hp build, yeah, that block will be just fine. Do us all a favor though, Throw a blower on it. By the way could you fill me in on the user name. How did you end up with that one? |
Blowers are way cool on the street 8)
My stock 1969 427 with lowered comp.(7.6) and mild blower cam is more than enough for the street. |
Well yeah, they are, but lets face it, he doesn't need a blower to make 500 HP with a 454.
A 10:1 motor with the right cam and a set of Dart 275 Oval Ports will make 500 HP. That will also be a heck of a lot cheaper than a blower setup. If he wanted to plan for the future with just a cam change, I'd buy the Pro1 310CC heads. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DRT-19100112/ |
THANKS FOR THE HELP WELL I REALLY FEEL STUPID NOW?? I'M NOT DREAMING ABOUT THE 500 HP RANGE ITS THAT I'M TRYING TO BUILD A BAD ASS STREET CAR. IM A TECH BY TRADE BUT NOT A RACE ENGINE BUILDER. SO I TURN TO THE EXPERTS ( YOU GUYS). SO I GUESS WITH THAT BEING SAID HOW DO A GUY (MYSELF) GO ABOUT BUILDING A BAD AZZ STREET CAR THAT CAN SHREAD THE TIRES AT THE LOCAL CAR SHOWS AND STILL HAVE IT STREETABLE. I'M WORKING WITH A 496 BBC I JUST PURCHASED THE EAGLES ROTATING ASSEMBLY TODAY, SO I WILL BEING SHOPPING FOR A TOP END NEXT. ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPERCIATED.!! AND FOR THE NAME YOU WOULD BELEIVE IT IF I TOLD YOU :twisted:
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http://www.themotorbookstore.com/hotohobich39.html
Good reading there. Most of the information regarding cams and heads is dated, but it has the core fundamentals. http://www.themotorbookstore.com/1557884927.html I don't have that second book, but it was published in 2006, so it probably has more current information relating to cam/heads. http://www.rehermorrison.com/rmEngineBook.htm The Reher Morrison book is an awesome reference and worth every penny. Keep in mind that you're going to need some specific tools to check tolerances when building the motor. Inside mics for main/rod bearings and piston pins. Outside mics for main/rod bearings, and piston pins. Ring filer. Ring compression tool to insert the piston assembly into the block. Piston top dead center tool. Camshaft degree wheel. Dial indicator and stand with magnetic base. Adjustable length push rods. "Test" valve springs to easily check piston to valve clearance. Some people use plasti gauge to check main/rod clearances. I never have trusted the stuff. I'm sure there's more that have slipped my mind. Keep in mind that building a 500 HP motor doesn't mean the car will be fast. If you can't get the power to the ground you're just going to have another over horse powered slug. By the way. Is your keyboard broke? The caps lock button seems to be stuck on. |
Yea I know. Thanks. This isn't my first engine build but it is my first BBC build I know getting the power to the ground is going to be a chore. In your best opinion, what would you consider streetable hp and tq. The trans is a turbo 400 which I will have built to whatever hp rating for the engine. The rearend will also have to be rebuilt also. This is a project so I know it will not be done overnight. Any info will be greatly appreciated.
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Originally Posted by rapedape
Yea I know. Thanks. This isn't my first engine build but it is my first BBC build I know getting the power to the ground is going to be a chore. In your best opinion, what would you consider streetable hp and tq. The trans is a turbo 400 which I will have built to whatever hp rating for the engine. The rearend will also have to be rebuilt also. This is a project so I know it will not be done overnight. Any info will be greatly appreciated.
I consider 1500 HP streetable, but that's me, not you. |
I'll chime in:
About 500 or 600hp would be a about as much as you'd need for a street car, anymore than that and your bordering on it being a racecar IMO. Getting 500 or 600 Hp to hook up is gonna be probelm unless your narrowing and tubbing it out for some wider tires, cooling is gonna be another concern. I don't know what rearend you got in there but if your going with a big iron, you need to upgrade to either a 12 bolt, 9 inch, or dana 60 housing. 10 bolts are for small blocks period. That TH400 you got already should handle the chores of shifting with only minimal upgrades. JMO>Cp |
Re: BBC 496 BUILD
Well, here's my take on it, if you will be driving it on the street mostly, you won't want rectangle port heads as you will hardly get up to the rpm's to use the power, so with that being said, you can also get a set of some GM heads, open chamber 781's(last 3 digit's in the casting number) or 049's and put the bigger valves in them, spend more cash and have the heads worked fairly well, and stick in a cam in the 550-600" lift range and a good hyd. roller would work great. You could use a Scat, Ohio Crankshaft, Eagle or GM cranks to hold this power, change the main bolts to ARP hardware and the head bolts also, keep the compresion at 10:5:1 or less and you can run pump gas and have a great time for a good price every weekend of cruzin. Good luck.
ElkyJohn
Originally Posted by rapedape
HI GUYS! FIRST OFF THANKS FOR THE ADVICE, I REALLY NEED SOME :lol: I HAVE A 454 OUT OF A 2000 CHEVY TRUCK CASTING 10237297 I WAS THINKING OF GOING WITH A 496 BUILD DOES ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THESE BLOCKS?? WILL THIS BE A GOOD BLOCK TO USE. ITS GOING INTO A STREET CAR BUT I'M LOOKING TO GET ANYTHING IN THE 500 HP ++ RANGE IF POSSIBLE?? IF SO DO ANYONE HAVE ANY PARTS RECONMENDATIONS. ALSO I WANT TO GO WITH SOME AFTERMARKET HEADS. ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED GREATLY THANKS!!!
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Re: BBC 496 BUILD
Originally Posted by elkymann
Well, here's my take on it, if you will be driving it on the street mostly, you won't want rectangle port heads as you will hardly get up to the rpm's to use the power, so with that being said, you can also get a set of some GM heads, open chamber 781's(last 3 digit's in the casting number) or 049's and put the bigger valves in them, spend more cash and have the heads worked fairly well, and stick in a cam in the 550-600" lift range and a good hyd. roller would work great. You could use a Scat, Ohio Crankshaft, Eagle or GM cranks to hold this power, change the main bolts to ARP hardware and the head bolts also, keep the compresion at 10:5:1 or less and you can run pump gas and have a great time for a good price every weekend of cruzin. Good luck.
ElkyJohn
Originally Posted by rapedape
HI GUYS! FIRST OFF THANKS FOR THE ADVICE, I REALLY NEED SOME :lol: I HAVE A 454 OUT OF A 2000 CHEVY TRUCK CASTING 10237297 I WAS THINKING OF GOING WITH A 496 BUILD DOES ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THESE BLOCKS?? WILL THIS BE A GOOD BLOCK TO USE. ITS GOING INTO A STREET CAR BUT I'M LOOKING TO GET ANYTHING IN THE 500 HP ++ RANGE IF POSSIBLE?? IF SO DO ANYONE HAVE ANY PARTS RECONMENDATIONS. ALSO I WANT TO GO WITH SOME AFTERMARKET HEADS. ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED GREATLY THANKS!!!
Thats just it though. To have a set of 781/049 heads worked over in porting, bigger valves/seats, and to have the port material removed to accommodate the additional airflow for the larger valves, you may as well buy the Dart Pro1 Oval Ports and be done with it. Out of the box, they will make more power than any worked over GM head, and you don't have to worry about core shift and breaking through into the water jackets of the GM head during porting. |
Re: BBC 496 BUILD
Originally Posted by OneBadGMC
Originally Posted by elkymann
Well, here's my take on it, if you will be driving it on the street mostly, you won't want rectangle port heads as you will hardly get up to the rpm's to use the power, so with that being said, you can also get a set of some GM heads, open chamber 781's(last 3 digit's in the casting number) or 049's and put the bigger valves in them, spend more cash and have the heads worked fairly well, and stick in a cam in the 550-600" lift range and a good hyd. roller would work great. You could use a Scat, Ohio Crankshaft, Eagle or GM cranks to hold this power, change the main bolts to ARP hardware and the head bolts also, keep the compresion at 10:5:1 or less and you can run pump gas and have a great time for a good price every weekend of cruzin. Good luck.
ElkyJohn
Originally Posted by rapedape
HI GUYS! FIRST OFF THANKS FOR THE ADVICE, I REALLY NEED SOME :lol: I HAVE A 454 OUT OF A 2000 CHEVY TRUCK CASTING 10237297 I WAS THINKING OF GOING WITH A 496 BUILD DOES ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THESE BLOCKS?? WILL THIS BE A GOOD BLOCK TO USE. ITS GOING INTO A STREET CAR BUT I'M LOOKING TO GET ANYTHING IN THE 500 HP ++ RANGE IF POSSIBLE?? IF SO DO ANYONE HAVE ANY PARTS RECONMENDATIONS. ALSO I WANT TO GO WITH SOME AFTERMARKET HEADS. ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED GREATLY THANKS!!!
Thats just it though. To have a set of 781/049 heads worked over in porting, bigger valves/seats, and to have the port material removed to accommodate the additional airflow for the larger valves, you may as well buy the Dart Pro1 Oval Ports and be done with it. Out of the box, they will make more power than any worked over GM head, and you don't have to worry about core shift and breaking through into the water jackets of the GM head during porting. |
ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPERCIATED.!! AND FOR THE NAME YOU WOULD BELEIVE IT IF I TOLD YOU :twisted:[/quote]
Try us, I gotta here it. :arrow: |
Originally Posted by montecarlo84
ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPERCIATED.!! AND FOR THE NAME YOU WOULD BELEIVE IT IF I TOLD YOU :twisted:
Yes inquiring minds want to know. |
Raped ape is the cousin of "striped ass ape"
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OK GUYS IM BACK !! THANKS FOR THE ADVICES. JUST PURCHASED A ROTATING WITH A FORGED CRANK EAGLES WITH EAGLES RODS AND JE FORGED PISTONS. AS FOR AS THE TOP END I WAS THINKING GOING WITH SOME AFTERMARKET ALUM HEADS. I WAS THINKING EITHER AFR OR PRO 1'S WITH A BUMP STICK WITHIN THE 550-600 LIFT RANGE WITH A DUAL PLANE INTAKE AND A 800-950 RANGE CFM CARB SHOULD I BUY THE HEADS BARE OR ASSEMBLED? THE COMPRESSION SHOULD BE AROUND 10-10.5 : 1 FOR PUMP GAS WHAT KIND OF POWER TORQUE SHOULD I HAVE ??
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AS FOR THE NAME IT WAS AN OLD HIGH SCHOOL TRACK TEAM JOKE BUT AT THE AGE OF 31 WITH A COUPLE OF KIDS IT SHOULD BE CRIPPLE APE LOL :lol:
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Originally Posted by rapedape
OK GUYS IM BACK !! THANKS FOR THE ADVICES. JUST PURCHASED A ROTATING WITH A FORGED CRANK EAGLES WITH EAGLES RODS AND JE FORGED PISTONS. AS FOR AS THE TOP END I WAS THINKING GOING WITH SOME AFTERMARKET ALUM HEADS. I WAS THINKING EITHER AFR OR PRO 1'S WITH A BUMP STICK WITHIN THE 550-600 LIFT RANGE WITH A DUAL PLANE INTAKE AND A 800-950 RANGE CFM CARB SHOULD I BUY THE HEADS BARE OR ASSEMBLED? THE COMPRESSION SHOULD BE AROUND 10-10.5 : 1 FOR PUMP GAS WHAT KIND OF POWER TORQUE SHOULD I HAVE ??
Bullet Cams is all the guys from Lunati, and they made some bad ass cams. I think their R35 profile (roller) would work awesome in that motor. If you're going to keep the RPM's at or below 6500, go with a 265-275cc oval port. If you want to wind it up, 320-325cc rectangle port. With any set of assembled heads you buy, plan on a valve job and having the spring heights set correctly. In mass production, both of those components usually don't get the greatest attention to detail. Ya really should have gotten the cam before the pistons. At this point, you don't know how much lift the pistons can take, do you? Power wise... 550-600 should be attainable. |
WELL I THINK THAT THE BARE HEADS WILL BE MY BEST BET AND HAVE THE VALVE AND SPRINGS PUT IN AT THE MACHINE SHOP. AS FOR THE PISTONS I DONT KNOW. SHOULD I WAIT TO AFTER I GET THE CAM BEFORE I INSTALL THE ROTATING JUST IN CASE I NEED SOME DIFFERENT PISTONS. MOST WILL EXCHANGE PARTS IF THE PARTS HAVEN'T BEEN USED. 550-600 WILL BE NICE BUT I KNOW TQ IS WHAT MAKE STREET CARS GET AROUND. I PLAN ON MAYBE IN THE FUTURE PUT A SMALL SHOT ON IT. WIL LTHAT EFFECT THE PARTS I BUY NOW AS FOR AS THE TOP END
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Originally Posted by rapedape
WELL I THINK THAT THE BARE HEADS WILL BE MY BEST BET AND HAVE THE VALVE AND SPRINGS PUT IN AT THE MACHINE SHOP. AS FOR THE PISTONS I DONT KNOW. SHOULD I WAIT TO AFTER I GET THE CAM BEFORE I INSTALL THE ROTATING JUST IN CASE I NEED SOME DIFFERENT PISTONS. MOST WILL EXCHANGE PARTS IF THE PARTS HAVEN'T BEEN USED. 550-600 WILL BE NICE BUT I KNOW TQ IS WHAT MAKE STREET CARS GET AROUND. I PLAN ON MAYBE IN THE FUTURE PUT A SMALL SHOT ON IT. WIL LTHAT EFFECT THE PARTS I BUY NOW AS FOR AS THE TOP END
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HEY THANKS FOR THE INFO I REALLY APPRECIATE IT
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