titanium vs. stainless
 

What is the advantage of titanium over a stainless valve? My motor is 377 sbc with 18* gm heads. It needs freshened and i dont know if i want to spend the money for new tit. valves,it's just a bracket motor. what would i lose E.T. wise? Horsepower wise?

I'm not an expert on this, but I've been told if you are not going to run your engine over 7000 rpms don't waste your money on titanium. I do know they make your valve springs live longer.

TS1955

I do spin it preety high about 8,000 to 8,200 thur the lights.

If the funds are there, then you probably should consider titanium. JMO

TS1955

I have also heard of guys running hollw stemmed stainless valves as a replacement for titanium to help keep the weight down. I think I am going to try them on my new motor.

From what I understand it is a weight issue on high rpm engines. On my BBC I have titanium 2.400 intakes and stainless 1.84 exhaust and the stainless exhaust valve is heavier than the titanium intake valve. I also run mine between 8000-8200 rpm.

Why turn your bracket motor that high anyway?

Weight combined with strength. It's another level you can buy into.

Of course I will mention the obvious - run smaller stem (titanium) valves, with titanium retainers, a rev kit and smaller OD pushrods.

This is the diet package for dependibility and high RPM's.

Dave

I respectfully disagree about the pushrods.
I don't care if I give up some weight... big pushrods help more than they could hurt...and the weight of the pushrod isn't really a factor since it isn't controlled by the spring...not directly.

X2 with Tod. Sometimes there is good weight.

Curtis

One thing to consider is the seat material. Stainless will beat up they copper seats in short order, especially at your RPM. As far as the pushrods, the biggest that will fit is the best. Not an area to be concerned about weight.

I twist my motor that high because it's an old cup motor (4.165 X 3.260) doesn't make any power till 6500. Good point on the seats Mark. Thanks for the reply Guy's.

Ever consider changing the cam?

Hey, no offence taken, I enjoy the conversations.
I perfer to leave the big old 7/16 pushrods on the bench and get Manton 3/8 x .083 wall. Even with upper end restricters, the oil will become moving weight. But then I'm not running 1"+ lift, 1,000 open pressure springs and 10,000rpm!
Dave

I have an 18 deg sbc with a 3.800 stroke and it likes 8000 rpm a lot,a 3.260 stroke 18 deg I think titanium in&ex would be a good thing.About pushrods,the more ratio the rocker arm has the harder it is for the pushrod to open the valve,and the easier it is for the spring to return it.So when going to higher rocker arms stronger pushrods is something to think about,lower ratio might like lighter ones.Bill.

On the bigger valves you really need the light weight of the Ti. The heavy stainless valves will actually bounce off the seat when you get around the 7,200+ mark. Lightweight valves also take a lot of stress off the valve springs. At least use Ti intake valves. It is $ well spent.

I agree, big valves need to be light, On my bbc merlin heads I have 2.30 Titanium intake side and stainless on EX.

I have a set of used 2.35 Ti I would consider selling.