weld it or replace it?
 

this is the trans in my truck. ive already got another case. would you swap cases are weld it?
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j2.../tranny003.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j2.../tranny001.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j2.../tranny002.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j2.../tranny004.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j2.../tranny005.jpg

i would swap for sure, what type tranny mount do you have? rubber or solid.

Housing
 

If it were mine, I would check on an "Ultrabell". Seems like the perfect candidate. I'd also try to find out why it broke. Is the tranny mount intact?

Not uncommon at all. Looks like a good start to a new Ultrabell.

JW makes a ultra bell that requires the removal of the damaged area on your trans shown in the photo. The new bell housing bolts directly over the oil pump and requires longer fasteners and stato seals on the bolts and you would be set. The housing is SFI approved and does not require any other additional shielding for the flex plate. They sell new for about 150 bucks or so and have all possible bolt patterns available. This is how a ford could use a GM 400 or..... Just thought I would point out the simple fix potential.
You know how you broke it right? If so you might have a clue what you may have damaged in the case internally. Pump bushing etc. Be sure you address what caused that failure prior to replacing with a new piece reguardless which way you go. And for the record, lots of Power does not do that, A twisting chassis or ridgid engine and trans mount in a flexing chassis could be in play.

sorry I took so long to type it appears every one already knows this. did not mean to be redundant.

Th350's are a dime a dozen and take no time to build. Replace the case for sure!!!

jw bell or case for sure. same as above with checking for a chassis twist problem. also be checking that driveshaft. remember even if it looks straight it could be twisting out of round under power if its too thin wall. real common problem with aluminum driveshafts. Had a guy with a 63 vette tube chassis mcamis car with aluminum mark williams driveshaft, 632 bbc big chief heads, twin toilets. he broke two cases before he told us about his aluminum driveshaft. installed a chrome moly driveshaft and never had a problem again.

What's you problem you've had 5 years to fix it? :lol:

Zip.

im thinking it started from the old drive shaft being to long. maybe put a stress crack in it. then when i put the shorter shaft in it and took it for a spin it done that? thats the only thing i can think of off the top of my head.

The critical speed of a drive shaft is reduced as the length is increased. You have the benefit of looking at all the variables in your garage and hopefully doing it yourself, so if you had a drive shaft vibrate at speed due to exceeding it's critical speed (RPM) you likely are correct on the cause. Some guys try to weld up there own shafts and do not have a way to jig the ends in perfect phase which causes the drive shaft to whip when it is spun. The other possible cause can also be using excessive pinion angle. Remember that the U-joints angles on each end need to cancel each other out by being within .5 degree of each other or less at load. Example, having 1.5 degrees between the trans / engine angle and the drive shaft must be equal to the pinion angle at the other end at ride height and at load + - 1/2 degree. The acceptable resultant angles could be 1 deg to 2 degrees going down the track on the pinion end for the 1.5 degrees on the trans end of the shaft. I am sorry if I made this sound complicated, but it is easy to over simplify, I hope I did not make it hard to follow so you need to read it several times to try to follow it but it is not an opinion, and is critical to getting all your engine power to the ground and not into mechanical bind.
Food for thought

Dam, I finally made the connection Zip, date on the photos is 2004.............. He must have a great memory as well!
I hope I did not give to up to date of information :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Little humor, very little humor :roll:

lol i just noticed the date was wrong on the pic too. nothing gets passed you does it Zip

HeHe, i was just having fun with you, you know me better than that :lol:

But since the fun is over, i will answer your question, put a bell on it, don't even try to weld it.

JMO

Zip.

Ultra bell it or replace it!!DR.

ok if go to the ultra bell do i have to run a smaller flywheel? if so do they make a smaller flywheel for a 400 sbc?

The flywheel diameter is not a problem with the ultra bell unless you are making your own larger than stock diameters? They look a lot smaller than stock but the register in the front is machined for a stock diameter flex plate and it does come very close to the bell and may look too small prior to fit up.
the torque converter however, has to be smaller than 13" or so but that never usually comes into play on race applications.

a midplate would help stop that problem from reaccuring , this is just from my past experinces :D

When removing the stock bellhousing the the JW, are you guys simply grinding it off or taking the case to a machine shop?

From a Rod & Custom article;

The hemi UltraBell can be ordered to fit a TH350, TH400, or Powerglide. What you have to do next sounds like a "radical bell-ectomy" but taking off the stock bellhousing from your transmission shouldn't scare you. Complete details and measurements are included with the UltraBell kit, and the deed can be done with a Bridgeport, reciprocating saw or an air tool with a cutoff wheel. The bulk of the housing is taken off on the first pass, leaving a small amount for a die grinder to finish off for a nice, clean edge. The cut doesn't have to be perfect (just don't let the blade wander into the pan rail or top of the front pump).

You can mask off the front pump and input shaft with duct tape and plastic during this procedure, but there's no need to disassemble the whole enchilada. Once you've done the obligatory post-op cleanup, you can remove the front pump bolts, push the UltraBell over your trans, and bolt it down using the high-strength Allen bolts supplied.

Good stuff! Thank you.