400 build question
 

I have a 400 block cast number "817" and I was wondering if it would be worth using? I heard that the "509" block would be better. I was thinking about a 377 or 406. It will be going in a 2800lbs S-10, glide, 9" with 4.88 gear and a 32x17.5 tire. I am not too sure about valve train or top end right now, but any suggests would be great. If you need more info please let me know. I am look to run mid 6's in the 1/8. Thanks.

I believe my 1st 400 was a 817 casting. Like you said they are not the perferred casting but I wouldn't be scared to use it.

Re: 400 build question
 

Before you do any thing to the block have it sonic tested as we have found quite a few of the 400 blocks with thin cylinders and were on good for a stock rebuild, Don't go by core !!!!!

If you use it, definately fill it to the bottom of the water pump with ROKblok block filler, by far the best and easiest block filler to use, just make sure you follow directions, mix it soupy, and work fast, as the stuff WILL set up really quick. I would also definately have 4 bolt splayed caps installed. Which, then at that point, a SHP block from Dart, may be the way to go, then you can skip the block filler. I personaly won;t use stock 400 blocks anymore, for anything more than 450hp street engines.

Frank

I am also looking to build a 400. I have a question with rod length. What are the pros and cons for the 5.7 and 6.0 rods? I know it will change the pin height in the piston. Which is the safest, reliable choice. My motor will see 150hp shot of nitrous occasionally also.

General conciences is that the 6" rod produces more power, i know i run 6" rods in all my engines. As you may know the original 400 engine had 5.562 rods, GM did this so they could use stock 350 piston pin heigth.

JMO

Zip.

I thought the purpose of the longer rods was to reduce side load and help keep the thing together?

I run a 406 in s10 blazer stock crank, stock rods,dish pistons,vortec heads,pump gas. very low 11's budget fast 4 years running.no problems

I have a nice used less than 100 runs 406, that ran 10.20's on alky and 10.40's on gas in an s-10 that I am willing to sell cheap, if you are interested

434 in a stock block with 6 inch rods..and NO BLOCK FILLER EVER!!!..metal must expand when it gets hot, if you fill the block that is where split cylinders come from car runs 5.70s with 1.21 and 1.22 60fts and weighs 2880 with me in it and has 7 years of running on the block and have had many engines and block last alot longer than that...don't believe all the internet hype

Internet Hype?? I have seen 3......THREE GM 400 blocks split cyinders WITHOUT any kind of hardblock just in my circle over the last 4 to five years with 3 different people! You are running on borrowed time if you have run that long. In fact one of the three ran a 434 for a number of years and he said the same as you, then it happened to him and destroyed a new engine, callies crank oliver rods and camshaft, block, oil pan, and minor heads damage! Internet hype.........what you know is very isolated to your little world.

These were bracket racing engines as well with no nitrous and no supercharging. Go to the aftermarket if you can.

I know of three 434s with stock blocks that have cracked in the last couple of seasons. Get a dart block if you can, no worries, money well spent.

I wish I could base all my info on just one engine internet hype HMMM

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...CKS/bblock.jpg

:o

Carl, looks like defective machine work to me!! :lol: :lol: J/K

Curtis

I have no idea who machined the block as it was brought in that way and we keep this pic around as alot of guys make their mind up pretty fast after seeing that cranage.

heck itl be fine
all i can really think of that was wrong with those blocks if they got hot
u get u a 4 core radiator and let it cool alot between races its be fine

That is a fine piece of destruction... that is tore up like a 3 peckered billy-goat in a one-legged butt-kickin' fight. It must have got hotter that a 3 dollar pistol... Scoot

400 block
 

I'd say that block is a prime candidate for a different kind of rebuild. :lol:
It should be done like this one:

http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/9137/bbq1z.jpg

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/359/bbq2.jpg

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/3549/bbq3.jpg

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/7273/bbq4i.jpg

It's the perfect core :P :P

I've always though that these were THE coolest BBQ's !!

HOWEVER.... how long does it take to burn out all the petroleum outa the cast iron so's you're not burning it into your food and then ingesting it ?

I was born and raised in Alaska where there were brazillions of tundra daisies(55 gallon oil/gas/liquid drums). We'd make ANYthing outa them. Who cared (at the time) what had been in 'em. I'm a tad wiser nowadays though. :roll: :roll: :roll:

That is one cool BBQ :D
Although my altered has the 817 block and is done right 8) My numbers speak for themselves.

FLA-

That is awesome!!! I have never seen one... man, I have to have one of those!!! I had no idea it was a BBQ at first... Cool!!

Damn that's cool, betya the wifey doesn't do the barbaqueing around your house, gotta take two men and a boy just to open the lid :P

Zip.

BBQ
 

It's not mine. I got it in an email from an old Navy buddy. I am thinking of building one. Should have some parts around the garage. Taking out all the cylinders etc. would be the hard part. I have to locate a junk block first. I'd hate to use a good one!! :P I guess I could build an import BBQ. :twisted: :twisted:

I went through 2 stock blocks with a 13.5 to 1 406. One with filler and one without. I wasted alot of money in Machine work Before I ended up with a Dart block. Motor dyno'ed 609 hp at 6400 rpm and both stock blocks split the top of the cylinder between 6 and 8. The cracks went from the cylinders to the head bolt in the middle. I think it has alot to do with the deck being too thin as well as the cylinders being thin.


My dart block ran for 5 seasons and more than 400 passes and I only took that apart to stroke the motor.

that looks like a 0 bolt main