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head bolts vs cylinder studs
Which one would you use in a n/a sbc ,23 degree iron heads,14-1 compression?
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Studs are usually always better and a must with alum. heads, because of the growth of alum. A good set of chromemolly head bolts will be fine with steel heads, but the head stud kit isnt that much more. If your buying new Id get the studs.
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arp bolts all the way!
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Bolts if you run a factory block that have the head bolt holes going into the water jacket, they seal better. Also if you have a door car and want to be able pull the heads, studs can be a pain. For blind hole blocks like World and Dart studs are fine.
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I run ARP bolts in my stock block 422. No gasket issue's.
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If you look at ARP VS ARP the bolts are awsome and not going to have any issues. The studs are for when the engine gets torn down regurally, the stud has better memory then a bolt. So it comes down to how much you want to spend and how often the engine is appart.
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I will be using a dart shp block,mls 1143 head gaskets,bored .030.I was just wondering if I should use studs because of the 14-1?Yes it will be in a door car.
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Originally Posted by dparker
Studs are usually always better and a must with alum. heads, because of the growth of alum. A good set of chromemolly head bolts will be fine with steel heads, but the head stud kit isnt that much more. If your buying new Id get the studs.
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Horse a piece, but if i were building it i would use studs, even though the blk will have blind holes and if you're useing a tricky rocker setup it's much easier to re-torque the heads with studs. IE, jessel shaft with 1.530 springs. $50.00 difference is not a lot on a good motor.
PS, Todd you have 5 bolts around the cylinders,VS 4 with a s/blk JMO Zip. |
Studs vs Bolts
I would say studs are a good choice .. espeacially if you are using an aftermarket block that the studs do not go into the water jacket.
I have sbc with studs .. but i have to say i did have an issue with the studs seeping coolant. It was an assembly issue...and the motor was new. I had to remove all the studs one at a time and reseal them..since then i have had no issues. I would suggest Loctite 567 for sealing stud treads.. its a very stout thread sealer.. although its expensive it WORKS. Take Care Keith |
I'm using scorpion rockers,1.550 springs, and already have Arp bolts.I guess I was hoping I would be able to use the bolts and save $200.
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The bolts you have will work fine. I just figured if you were going to have to buy new you, might as well get studs. If you already have ARP bolts use them they'll work great.
good luck, |
Originally Posted by et7333
I'm using scorpion rockers,1.550 springs, and already have Arp bolts.I guess I was hoping I would be able to use the bolts and save $200.
Zip. |
Thanks for the info everyone.This site is great!
Steve |
Hi et7333 .....I see your here too.. :D
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Re: head bolts vs cylinder studs
Originally Posted by et7333
Which one would you use in a n/a sbc ,23 degree iron heads,14-1 compression?
that way the nut will give instead of stripping out the block threads,same on mains |
lets not forget main studs also. :oops:
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Originally Posted by mopar1962
lets not forget main studs also. :oops:
if the motor is balanced it should be fine,i mean think about it, the crank spins on oil,and the oil isnt enough to make it like a hydrolic force ,that keeps it centered ,so the crank doesnt eat the main bearings up,so the balancing is critical,or those lil crappy bearings are gone i wanted to have a set of special precision bearings made for rods,and mains,like motorcycles, but make them 2 piece ,with a oil channel in the middle so the oil will flow to all gallies,man you could spin it to 50000 prolly with out a worry 8) |
Re: head bolts vs cylinder studs
Originally Posted by poncholvr
Originally Posted by et7333
Which one would you use in a n/a sbc ,23 degree iron heads,14-1 compression?
that way the nut will give instead of stripping out the block threads,same on mains If you blow a head clean off the block( or damn near) or the crankshaft out the bottom.... you got way worse problems than some stripped bolts... :P jk You get a better clamping load with studs, among other advantages This is a copy paste from the link posted For performance applications where a choice is available, studs should be used whenever possible instead of main cap bolts. Studs provide the ability to obtain much more accurate torque values because they don't twist during tightening as bolts do. Because studs remain stationary during nut tightening, they stretch in one axis alone, providing much more even and accurate clamping forces. Also, because the use of studs results in less force applied to the blocks threads, this extends the life of the threaded holes in the block. This is especially important with alloy blocks. The use of studs also eases main cap installation, and contributes to main cap alignment. There is less chance of main cap walking because the studs remain stationary during cap clamping. http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...5/ai_n25502406 . |
The lowdown is studs are fine thread going through the head or the main caps and standard thread into the block. this creates a greatly improved clamping ability.happy holidays all.
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