1/2 or 5/8 rear wheel studs
 

i currently have 1/2 wheel studs on strange 35 spline axles. i really dont want to buy new axles to go to the larger studs if i dont need to. im i ok whit what i have. 1000 hp, glide, 2650 weight on car 15-33 slicks. thanks

re; wheel studs
 

With that kind of horsepower I*d get the biggest stud I could get. But you don*t need new axles.

in this case i would go bigger, it,s better to have it, and not need it, than need it, and not have it, with that kind of hp, i would want it.!!!

studs
 

I got 5/8 on my digger with less hp, yes move up, You wont be sorry. 8)

NO QUESTION....5/8!!

???--DO YOU HAVE TO DRILL OUT YOUR ALUMINUM RIMS BIGGER OR IS THE LUG NUT SHANK JUST THINNER???

lug nut,s for 5/8 will not have a shank.

the wheels will still work, wondering if the axls will be ok to br drilled, or are they hardened after there done from manufacture. i guess i can call strange tommorow

Re: studs
 

I have less HP in my 69 and have 5/8

They can be drilled.

The stud is the same sixze as hole in wheel( 11/16) and you use a washer and nut. The nut is just a flange nut not a typical lug nut with shank

What did you do to drill them ? When I tired it on a pair of Moser Axles I used a Carbide bit and couldnt cut through them, had to send them back in so they could be annealed, drilled and then rehardened.

Return & Shipping and labor was around 100 $

Mine are mosers too, we drilled them on a bridgeport, but I don*t remember using any special drill. But we may have, we did it about 4 years ago in a friend of mines machine shop, if he can remember i*ll find out and post here.

I thought you had to send em off....that is what I have heard...mine was already done when I got the car.

i don,t think, that section of the axel is as hard as the shaft, so it would be drillable if thats a fact, but it will have to be taped for screw in studs, i don,t know of any press fit 5/8 studs. it might be less of a pain to send them out.

Guys, I dont remember them being hard to drill at all. I did the drilling after he helped me set up the mill, and we tapped the holes for screw in studs. I*M still trying to get a hold of him, when I do I*ll let you know.

re; wheel studs
 

It took me awhile to run him down, but I finally found him. For that I apologize. HE said that we used a titanium nitride bit. he said it was very sharp, and he said we drowned it in oil. run the bit at 175 RPM. Anyhow, thats how he said we did it. I think we did the whole thing, all 10 holes in less than an hour including setting up the mill. We used the mill to tap the holes also.

I'd be more concerned with the tapping than the drilling....if you get ONE hole started crooked your stud will poke out all crazy and you WON'T be able to get your wheels on...or have another chance to fix it :oops: I believe in doing everything you can yourself,but unless you have the proper machines...leave it to the pros.That's just my $.02

Eric,
It's not that hard to get a tap started straight, just get a piece of material as thick as the threads on the tap are long, drill it so the tap just fits through it. Clamp it to the flange in line with the hole, you have your guide that way. Easy and straight. Of course the best way is just use the mill to do it, no problem if you have access to a mill. I just through it up on my HMC and push the button.

Curtis

Just as soon as i get a place for a good used mill, I*m gonna get me one. Mans greatest invention next to the thermos bottle! :D

True..but I didn't want him to tackle it with a tap set from Lowe's :oops:

Or worse yet Harbour Freight!!!!

:lol: :lol:

Sent my axles to a local machine shop. When you get them back install the studs and then trial fit them into the wheels before you install the axles in the housing. My wheels had been run for a few seasons with the shank type nuts with washers. The edges of the holes had been rolled into the hole. It took some time to clean this up and make everything fit properly. Also don't forget the brake hat or drum, they will need opened up also.
Brian