[quote="Tod74"][quote="cepx111"][quote="traysvega"]Yes, but only when he is training. He is past that now. He currently does the "Hot method"... but submission of his mind powers & heat from his fingers. One by one, the lash falls into place out of fear... known now as the "Norris Heat Factor" which is used for many other mechanical adjustments.

I do agree that the EOIC method is the EASiest method to understand and follow(for most).I've also have NEVER been burnt adjusting valves.Try not to lay your fingers directly on the header and you'll be fine. :shock: My method is fast, simple, an easier IMO.No mistakes,and only 2 complete rotations of the motor..instead of all the bumping for EVERY cylinder.Understand theres more ways to do this and ALL I SAID was this is how I do mine.Kinda why I tried the EOIC VS my method(again) was because I wanted to see if the newer cam profile was maybe different.Consistency is prob the most important imo.

I guess chuck Norris comment is a running inside joke :lol: ... :roll:

Hate to come in late on this thread,,, I run an aluminum roller bearing block, and I used to adjust cold with the EOIC method l...but I find that each lobe seems to have a different low spot. And I seem to have to rotate each lobe till I find the lowest spot, maybe I`m just being picky but, the cam is not ground true, or the roller bearings are out of wack,,either way I have to set each one separate,,has anyone come across this ? some are out 2-3 thou. Is this a common thing ? and I go cold .007, the aluminum block with heads really moves especially 10.2 tall deck, even Oil pressure drops lots from cold to hot. so I run a big external oil pump too...everything expands lots more than steel................anyone lookin for a 10.2 talldeck alum.wet block ??? lol