I would just go with what's on the card. Probably wouldn't see enough gain to make it worth while.

I've seen a few horsepower gain by doing this:Set the valves at the recommended setting on the cam card.Take a compression test reading on that cylinder.Tighten the lash up another .002 and take another compression reading.Keep doing this till you get the highest compression reading.But don't go more than .010 from the spec card.If it keeps getting higher compression readings after .008-.010 than you could probably use a little more cam.If the compression falls off than you have too much cam.

I am 24 and always a gearhead, but new to racing and trying to squeeze every horse out of a motor.

How does the lash make the compression go up? do valves close sooner on the compression stroke so it has more time to compress the gasses?

I just do that to one cylinder, then the rest would be the same, correct??

Also the cam card says that the center will make the cam 4* advanced. Does that mean that I need to install the cam 4* advanced?? Where do you think I will get the most power?

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1782&gid=245

It is strictly a drag car. Here is my set-up...third one up from bottom.

http://forums.racingjunk.com/viewtop...2839&start=180

I apologize for jacking the thread a bit.

Thanks for the help...this site is great :D

To tell you the truth I don't know how it changes but I know it works.True,You do it for every cylinder.
The cam card says it will be 4* advance if installed straight up.It just means the cam is ground 4* advanced on a straight up center line.Get the cam degree'd anyway to see if it lines up 4*.If not than you can have it dgree'd at 4* with the correct timing cain gear with the notches in it or set it up with a gear with adjustable bushings.Most good cam company's are dead on though.

I just read this whole thing & it hurt my brain. I only have tried once w/ solid cam (lunatti) & set my intake & ex to.26. I used the remote start, & worked my way to each int/exh. It seemed to me that the duration/lash stayed the same once set... never picking up or loosing tolerance until lift came in to play. As a complete rookie, I hope I did this right. Here's my question- as long as my motor is setup this way, will the valve lash always remain the same? As it breaks in & wears, wouldn't the lash/tolerance change slightly over time?

If it is a solid roller it should not change. If it changes much you need to find out why. A roller lifter failure can and will destroy your whole engine.

I was told to set mine cold @ .022 all the way across even though the spec card says 28 and 30 hot. I talked with 2 guys I know that own their own racing engine service here in Memphis that used to do R&D for Joe Lunati and they recomended doing it that way.
They also said all that monkeying with tighter and looser valve lashes and using different ratio rockers trying to eck up an extra 1 or 1 1/2 hp is just plain horse hockey, there is just not that much hp to be made at the valve, better off spending that time and money else where in the motor. >Cp

I agree with cepx.I set my solid rollers tight by .006" and usually works out purdy darn close

i set int. and ex. as tight as .017 cold. u don't need .024 of slop.
it's a safety / margin of error for a cam manufacture to give you.

so is there a best way for big(270@50)cams.I set mine @ tdc 1 at a time,and I'm joing to be checking it soon.I do it cold. :?:I have around 40 passes