ive allways been one to not have to be better than the next guy,i like my vehicles and have many nice ones,but its to make me happy...when i race my car i dont mind telling what it ran and i dont mind getting beat,its never bothered me...some people are soo secret on what their car runs and allways try to go faster...ill never want more than 10s and im 35 and have raced since my first hot rod at 17(68 mustang)...i could pull some equity out or sell one of my many vehicles or just use some money to build a 7 second car,but i dont do much track time and to me,if i tow it to the track and run down the track and make that 7 second pass,i may be shaking a bit....,but its not a car i can jump in with the family and drive 80 miles in the summer time,to me the only way that could be done is with the twin turbo small block with a 6 speed behind it...

but my camaro is a 10 second car,with a 125 shot...and my gn is 11s all day with comfort and a/c,and one heck of a stereo...i have a stage one 9 second motor all new sitting for it,and it dont bother me not having it under the hood...i love race cars and i see many on this site,including yours...i like seeing a extremely clean race car,im more into making them look perfect than crazy fast,ive seen both too,but 10s is fast enough for this guy :D 11s will do too,heck 12s is faster than most cars on the road...

I'm a little surprised that the s/blk vote is running this close to the boat anchor b/blks (HeHe, don't shoot the messanger) Most of the posters on this forum has bigger CU IN motors than i have dollars in my checking account. I personally as stated earlier have run both big and small mtrs. about 20 yrs. ago i decided to go to s/blks and have accumilated a large quanity of s/blk parts. I couldn't afford to change if i wanted to. Living on SS and a couple rentals, it's just not in my budget. As Wes said he has spent $36,000.00 and change on a long blk. and i'm sure that BJ has spent an equal amount on his vette motor. I never plan to go as fast as either one of these guys but i hope to go to the track and attract some attention with my s/blks. Jeez, a few yrs. ago i was at Huntsville's 1 million dollar race and a youngster from Tx. walked away with $175,000.00 in the ft. brake class running a jeepster, and a friend from Memphis won $150,000.00 plus with his dragster running high 4's. Racing is all about focus and being constistent everytime you show up at the tree. It doesn't matter how much money you have or how fast your car is. We've all watched NHRA events and once you get past the Alcohol cars and prostock cars there is no constistency, it's who doesn't go up in smoke or who peddles best.
Not being a pro, i would sooner go the track and face a person who runs so fast that he/she rarely gets down the track except on a good run than to face a person in a 1972 ford pickup running 9.50's in the 1/8 mi.
It's nice to have the whole crowd over looking at your car and taking pics. etc. but then you go up to the line and blow the tires off or get so out of shape it's impossible to win. You have then devoted your car and yourself to a total hobby and cannot expect to ever get your money back unless it's in match races.
When i had the blower motor in my friends Dodge we never won an event, but it was fun. my friend Jeff has made over $3,000.00 in the last month with his dragster and it only runs 4.90, but it does it every time and he's good on the tree.
I guess i'm trying to say that money is not everything, be it b/blk or s/blk you just have to be on your game and i agree this is the most i've ever seen on a poll of this sort, but my gut feeling is that b/blks should win because ANYONE can build them and make them go fast, but it takes a fool hearted smart person with lots of money to build a s/blk to run with them.

O'K, i'm done :P

Zip.

PS, i still like s/blks and i'm going to run run the Mil. dollar race at Memphis if my friend (Bill Taylor aka BTE) will pay me in, after all he is the sponser.

Tommy I can not say anything regarding the rest of your life style. But I will say this regarding your life style on the love for your hobby you have your head on straight in my book. The only one that has to be happy with your build is you. This is one thing that I see at car show all the time. Is you will have a 100k car sitting some what close to a 6k car and the guy with the 6k car is just as proud if not more so then the guy with the 100k car because he has worked hard to get where he's at. He may not win anything but he is still proud of his ride and will just say I'll get them next time. So I say you are spot on with your post and glad to know you.

Zip you too have some great points. I would just like to say that the almighty just gives you one pass. You don't get to make round two so you better make it a good one. So from a long time ago I said to myself after I have seen my first 4.99 1/8 mile pass I said thats what I want to do. Now I was so close with a 5.24 but you know yourself that .25 is quite a ways off but could have done it on the juice but just was not in the cards that time. This time I am holding the deck and I am going to do my best to meet my goal but not at all cost. If I dont make it I can go to my dirt nap saying I gave it one shot and my best shot. I will live with what ever time this car brings. I am sure after my build I will need lots of help from qualified people in all fields to meet my goal.

Zip, I met Bill Taylor at Montgomery Al several years ago after he started his new company again and a super nice guy. We use his converters and get them from Neil.

Steve

For all of us old guys. You know it's NOT like it used to be. First to the finish line wins. Not anymore. So why build a fast car? I know it's the pride and acomplshment but to me it cost a ton to go fast and is it nessasary unless your running heads up. It's all about bracket racing and has been since racers got tired of the same guy with the most money winning all the time. They changed racing to bracket racing because it was dying out. So in bracket racing you can loose to a daily driver escort or lumina or what ever.

If your not racing as Pro's it doesn't matter how fast you go. I think it's an individual thing to want to go as fast as you can. When I was younger I couldn't go fast enough but now I want to be dead on consistent. I think it's tough to do with a 7 or 8 second door car. I did say door car because the dragsters are deadly consistent going fast. I guess I'm getting off subject but I still tell my sons that love to go fast that consistency is what you should be looking for to win any kind of money. That's how you win in bracket racing now a days.
My camaro runs 10's and it hooks at most tracks. I figure any faster and I'm gunna have another variable to deal with that will not let me go rounds. I have as much fun running 10's as I had running 9's and it doesn't cost as much. When your getting close to retiring that makes a big difference. Just my thoughts
Sorry to get off subject.

I really like SB & BB's. However I think all things being equal, dollar for dollar and pound for pound you can't beat a SB. How many of you think given an equal amount $, for argument sake say $6000. that the BB would make more HP. I think in a real low budget application the BB has an advantage, then that advantage gives way to the SB up to about 700HP. After that, the cost goes up exponentially for each HP gained the parts to make big power at that point are off the charts for either.

I can certainly relate to the family coming first, that's why I've been sidelined for a few years now and just starting to get mine back together. Occasionally we have to put things in perspective, although cars and racing have different levels of importance to each of us, we must keep our priorities straight. For example, I need a new third member right now, but I won't spend the mortgage payment to go get it, even though I want to! :?

oh man, where do I begin on this subject, I could go on for days......

you guys in the posts above are right on with your views of racing......
I always say now to build and race within your budget and be happy with what it runs.
but we can get bit by the "I gotta go faster" bug and these things will turn into a money pit faster than loosing traction and hitting the wall...
When I was racing every weekend, late 70s early 80s, it was for me gotta go faster. The morgage and bills were always paid, but the time and money spent took a big toll on my first marrige. The race car was the "other woman"
Back then you had to race evey weekend to earn points for attending, so you could make it into the bracket finals in the fall. Quite a toll on a marrige when you are married to a woman that thinks all this is stupid and cars are only for going to the mall.
I have seen a few marriges and familys broken up over this drag racing obsession over the years, bankrupcys, and guys in the end having to sell their beloved racecars to pay off the ex wife or divorce lawyer....
I have also seen guys that were very happy with their 13sec, 12 sec 11 sec cars and in no way wanted to go faster. Consistincy was their goal and it paid off with many wins over the years.

And that is really what we need to do, race within our budgets whatever that may be. My idea has been to build a big block, low compression motor, and a car as lite as you can reasonalbly get it.
Low maintenance and consistency is the result, whatever times it runs.
It is no fun to go to the track, pay all that money for tow fuel, admission to get in , just so you can work on the car. I have been there....

These days going 11s or even 10s on a working mans budget is not unreasonable. Cheap to run and one guy can maintain it at the track.
Now the faster you go, the more money and work goes into it, and by the time you are into the 7s money and maintance has gone through the roof for the average guy. Now you need sponsors and buddies to help you with the car at the track . There are always valvesprings and lifters to check and replace, motor tear downs frequently, rings, bearings, rods, ...you gotta replace these things before something comes out of the side of the block.
Not to leave out all the support equipment you need, 1 ton deasil daully truck, big enclosed trailer, full of shop tools and equipment, spare motor, transmissions etc etc.....
So now this becomes a second job... more stress on family life.
Even if you have a supporting wife and family, there is only so much she will take, you dont want to find where that is...

All this may sound strange coming from a guy that is trying to make a living building these cars for guys, but over the years I have seen a many that get in way over their heads, lose interest or their families and sell everything off at less than half of what they got into it

I could go on, maybe latter,

Big block? Small block?, doesnt really matter in the end if you got a court order to sell it all off and give it all the the ex for support.....

build smart, race smart and you can have a fun hobby and a happy family life, and stay in this game for years.....

everything posted HAS MERIT in its own time and place with individuals..No question about it....good info to live by..

but now back to the SBC vs BBC......

I still challange anyone to prove they can build more HP and TQ with a SBC over BBC...for the money....

All of the recent post above have centered around running within your budget and putting important things 1st and being happy with what you run... ( i agree with all of it)....also keep in mind weather your brakcet racing,street crusing or whatever, its based on CARS that have power which places all of us on another level and free's our spirit...if this wasn't the case then everyone would be running 1987 (4cyl) Ford escorts and cutting perfect lights with 10k worth of electronics on board....of course i am being a little funny here ..but DO YOU SEE MY POINT ?

But let me say after reading this ..it just validates ( in my head anyway) why someone would want to run a BBC over SBC......
example"
LESS MONEY more HP and TQ....and you dont have to turn the piss out of it ... :D :D :D

BBC RULE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I WISH I COULD VOTE AGAIN.... :cry: :cry: \

Brian

I'm one of those guys that is just as happy with my car as the guy with the $100k car, to me it's not about the money invested its that I built it myself. I like to do all the work I can on mine..and If I don't know how to do it I just want to learn....no matter how much I make I will still want to build it myself.
As far as BB/SB if we brake it down to NA mild upgrades nothing too big done , then what would you pick? It's great to see what you guys pick cuz a bunch have had both before...instead of the guys that have never had one..just jumping on the small block cuz they never had a big block..I'm not going to drop any names...

Bjuice, does the comparison build use new stuff or swap meet items?

To be honest when I got back into the sport I wasn't really too bothered about big or small block (come to that I would have considered a ford or chrysler). The car I bought had a BBC in it ready to go so thats what I had..

At this point I should explain that racing over here in the uk is a little different, read that as being probably about 2 1/2 times more expensive but still quite good value for us Europeans.

I run in a bracket from 6.3 to 8.99 (1/4 mile) and to be honest thats where it ended up first ever run was a 9.7 easy pass and once I'd done a few it ran regular 8.5's. Now as we don't get the chance to run as much as you guys do, my choice was to make it go as fast as I can, I just enjoy driving the thing....

I've seen some pretty big $numbers up there in this post and as far as I'm concerned it's all about making what you have work..

I won't change my combo now until I get the car into the 7's, and that will be on a single carb and racing gas, I've got a killer engine in my shop waiting to be built and thats where it will sit until I get where I want to be.

This car ran 8.200 @ 160.odd on a 950 cfm 4150 carb, I'm sure it will go 7.90 @ 165-8 with the dominator on it, I'm looking at taking weight off where I can. It's easy to buy power (big or small block) but I think it's much more satisfying to make your stuff work and last, mind you I think I am going to have to rev it past 7000 to do it. I also ran 8.1 soft pass first run of this year so the signs are good (having a year out to get a new workshop built, my lifes a logistical nightmare) so I'll only get a few chances to run as a demo car at one of our 2 tracks.. If I don't get the 7 then I'll leave it in for next year..

When I get where I want to be then I'll put my 540 olds in 200lbs lighter and probably 300 horsepower more, alky injection should liven it up a bit.. I'll then set my target for that combo, it'll stay that way until I get there and then the only thing left is to fit the 14/71 and see where that goes..

In summary big or small does not really matter (and for the guy with the inline six, the number of cylinders is not an issue either) it's making what you have work to the best you can, rest assured friends you can be king of the hill at your track but sooner or later someone with a wad of cash will come along and go quicker. Best you don't try to keep with him, set your own goal and stick to it or it's going to cost some big money..

one thinhg I've noticed is a lot of the small block guys spend a lot of money trying to make them into big blocks, I went the other way I tried to get my big block down to a similar weight to a small block, retaining the torque that it will give oh and when I build it I'm going to rev the T**ts off of it, so in effect it will be a big small block with the advantages of both..

Have I promoted any one or the other? who knows it's just a friendly opinion..

Terry below is a copy of my 1st post i used for example.


ok we can settle this debate fairly easy if we use the HP vs Body weight theory...( leave the unknown out of it such as hooking up etc...)

With all the on-line calculators to determine ET'S and MPH...We can narrow this down....

lets use RETAIL pricing on the parts for sake of argument...

now imgaine we have the same ( identical car) 69 camaro 10 inch tire car that weighs 3400 with driver......Keep in mind eveything is the same throughout car,,,even the driver... ( for the sake of agrument)

Our target HP goal is 900hp...( someone out there please find us one of those fancy charts to figure how fast we will run,,with 900 hp at 3400lbs)


next figure how much it will take to build a 900 hp BBC,,,,,and then how much it would take to build a 900 HP sbc........

lets keep it fair..naturally aspirated on both sides..can't be puttin blowers and turbo's on small blocks unless you allow it on the BBC.

So do some figuring on this...i can already tell you that you gonna need a minimum of an 18 degree Small block with exotic heads ( sb2 etc...)...i can already tell you that a convential head BBC will make 900hp no problems...

so lets start figuring.... SO the question is........can you build a 10 second small block cheaper than a 10 second BBC...i say no....what i mean by 10 second et's is 10.0 or teens...NOT 10.90'S...

OK, that lets my plan out. :oops:

someone call me :D
this is what i believe to be true if you want 10s,11s,12,s or 13s,it can be had cheaper with a small block,if you want faster im guessing a big block will start to become cheaper....if your car is a big heavy pig,you may want to go big block to get in the 10s or 11s cheaper....

small blocks rev higher,and parts are cheaper,and small blocks are my choice only because i like the element of surprise,like i stated before,if you have a big block your exspected to be fast(which most are not :lol: ..jk.)but with a small block built right and the use of a combo and some skillz will make a modded big block owner vote SBC :D plus i like all the room under my hood,and i like stopping and taking corners instead of having to drift around them like BBC owners do :lol:

ok clarify what you are talking about when you say small block?...someone touched on it a few post ago...
you got all these people out here turning out 454ci small blocks...in theory is this really a small block when speaking of CI ???

I am with ZIP if you are trully a die hard small block guy and love shocking BBC guys then really go with a SBC...let''s say a "D" Stroked 283 CI that turns 12,000 rpm...

i do not buy the 500 ci small block theroy..and try to pass it off as sleeper "poor little ole small block " up against all these BIG bad BBC.


thanks- brian

:lol:
well my camaro has a 406...when people here it they all thinks its a big block,i tell them its a 327 just like it says on the side :D
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...ture1000-2.jpg

i don't blame you i would too...LOL... :wink:

I claimed my 1st Steel headed BBC 468 to be a 396ci for yrs..because the badges on the 69 camaro..

your average guy didn't know the difference...LOL...

If small block guy's really love them so much why do they try to get 500 cubes from them .
Like b said then it's not really a small block
So why not just go get yourself a 540 for less than a small block .

Anything over a 468 is a stroker big block, just to add fuel to the fire... :P

I had been doing business with Bill Taylor from the mid 80's when i lived out west and he still owned TCI, but didn't get a chance to meet him until i moved to Ms. in the mid 90's, i watched his grand son go thru the junior dragster ranks and into his first procomp dragster. He used to come to Memphis every sat. nite 10 yrs. ago, but now his health is not what it used to be, so he only shows up at the major events. I no longer live in Ms. but i still have a residence there whitch i rent out, it's about 45 min from BTE. So i don't see him as often as i used to, but i still do business with him and have one of his strait cut 1.80's PG.
I was just kiddin about him paying me in for the million dollar race, but it's a nice dream.

Zip.

You guys are on the right track but your going to skew the results. First off there is a point where it's no longer cost effective to compare the two. Once you set the baseline HP so high that the SB guy has to use 18 deg heads then you've skewed the contest in favor of the BB. Why not keep like I said at 700 or 750HP. Would it be because a BB can't make HP dollar for dollar until you get over that magic number? :wink:

It's a tough call with the SB's running BB cubes...I'de just go with the 700 750 hp thing and limit it to that.

Right, once you start stroking and having to add anything other than a 23 deg head then nothing is cheap. If you stay within the stock stroke and head configurations and stay under 415 CID then I'll go against BB any day long as we have HP cap. What I'm saying is I don't think you can build 750 HP BB cheaper than a SB. and even if you did the weight to HP factor comes into play.

Simple - Weight! :wink:

LOL....bLITTLE i was waiting for someone to come back with that one...i was planning my way around this question 2 days ago with my 1st reply on this post..

the ET 10.'s were brought into the Equation....i came up with the 3400 lb rule cause thats what would take in most street trim cars W/dRIVER....all we did was figured out how much HP it would take to power a 3400 lbs car into the 10.0's....and i think wes came up with 670 hp to the rear wheels...and i calculated 20% loss of HP thru the drive train and chassis which would put close to 840 hp at the crank....before these calculations were posted i used a nice round figure of 900 hp...seems i wasn't too far off...
but i would not hesitate to back this up to 750hp and the BBC chevy still comes out on the better side......making 750 HP on NATURAL ASPIRATED 23 degree SBC is still accomplishing a great feat......i have had some ball busting alumin rod 406's that just made 660 hp 750 hp on a 23 degree motor is very attainable but you would not do it with run of the mill parts and a so so- mechanic......my experience owning and spectating..


here is Wes finding he posted a few pages back.....i promise i didn't load up the Contest before the debate started..it only seems that way becuase a BBC makes so much more HP....lol.... :D :D


just for the heck of it here is a copy of what SSRE RACING ENGINES sell their 434 sbc 685hp...11x heads...they have a 750 hp version 15 degree motor.
i'm am sure this will vary a little bit from builder to builder but this is a good idea of what a top quality 434 SBC 23 Degree motor will make..now back this up to 415 CI and take 40 hp off this...which will come in at 650 hp....

I AM NOT ENDORSING SSRE..I AM ONLY USING THEIR ENGINE AND PARTS AS A HP EXAMPLE.

Dart Little "M" 4 Bolt Race Prepped Block w/Splayed Caps • Brodix 11X Aluminum Heads w/CNC Porting • Eagle 4340 4.000" Stroke Steel Crank • Eagle 4340 6.000" H-Beam 3D Steel Rods • Wiseco 14.1 Forged Pistons • SSRE Custom Roller Cam & Kit • Cloyes Billet True Roller Timing Set w/Torrington Bearing • Pro Series 1.6 Aluminum Roller Rockers • New Motown Dominator Intake • SSRE/Moroso Custom Stroker Oil Pan • SFI Harmonic Balancer • Internally Balanced • Dyno Tested & Tuned • Dyno Sheet Provided
725 HP Version includes: Fully CNC Ported Brodix 227M2 Heads, Custom Wiseco 14.8-1 Gas Ported Pistons w/.043/3mm Rings, Upgraded Cam & Spring Package add $1250

Nitrous version available. Call for details.


Less Carb & Ignition


Options:

950 CFM Holley Carb Package includes: Carb, Phenolic Spacer, Aluminum AN Fuel Fittings, Studs & Gaskets. Dyno Tuned, Jetted and Calibrated on your engine. $ 895

1050 CFM Holley Dominator Carb Package includes: Carb, Phenolic Spacer, Aluminum AN Fuel Fittings, Studs & Gaskets. Dyno Tuned, Jetted and Calibrated on your engine. $ 995

MSD Electronic Ignition Package includes MSD Pro Billet Distributor w/Ford HEI-Style Cap, Bronze Gear, Custom MSD 8mm Wire Set. Dyno Tuned and Calibrated on your engine. $ 395

Dart "Little M" 4 Bolt Race Prepped Block w/Splayed Billet Caps $ 300
Callies Compstar 4340 Forged Steel Crank w/Ion Nitriding $ 150
Callies "All American" Dragon Slayer 4340 Forged Steel Crank w/Dura-Tough Heat Treating $ 495
Callies CompStar 4340 Steel Rods w/ARP 2000 Bolts $ 300
Lunati 4340 Pro Mod Rods $ 425
JE Pro Series 14.1 Pistons $ 75
Taperwall Tool Steel Wrist Pins $ 175
Calico Coated Bearing Package (Cam, Rods & Main) Only Available w/Callies Crank $ 125
Crane Hippo (High Pressure Oiling) Lifters $ 250
Cometic Multi Layered Steel Head Gaskets $ 95
SSRE Stud Girdle $ 200
Jesel Shaft Rocker System $ 925
Jesel Belt Drive (includes additional $175 labor for mandatory block machining) $ 1050
ATI Balancer $ 225
Moroso Pro Pan w/Kickout (adds power and better oil control) $ 200
Moroso Vacuum Pump Kit w/Relief Valve (Installed) $ 895
MSD Crank Trigger Ignition Upgrade $ 250
SpeedTech Liquid Force Nitrous System Installed $ 1750
O-Ring Block w/Stainless Steel Wire $ 175
Additional Block Notching Charge (if required w/optional components) from $ 75
Additional Balancing Charge w/Heavy Metal (if required w/optional components) from $ 100





Brian I show to get 670hp @ the rear wheel on 10.00 ET w/ 136 mph in a 3400# 69 Camaro.
_________________
Wesley

I went to my trusty race calculator at wallace racing and it shows you only need 597 hp at the flywheel to run a 10.09 @ 130mph in a 3400 lb car.

I say it is a lot cheaper to build a BBC to get that HP and TQ needed, but some guys just got to go small block. :D

I would think that 600 hp should get you to the 10's...thats a decent BB and a really worked SB. I know you guys will laugh at it..but a GMPP 572 will get a 3400 car to the low 10's..

Carl I was using Tim McAmis race cars in cool stuff there E.T. Calculator and if you put 3400# an 670hp rear wheel it comes up with 10.00 @ 136mph so I dont know which one is more correct. Your guess is better then mine.

Big Block all the way!!!!!!!
You will be small block guy till you run a big block then you'll never go back. Think of them (small blocks) as starter homes...
Some people never move out and others move on to bigger and better things.

Well, I had a 67 Chevelle once that had a low compression .060 350 with stock heads and a small solid camshaft, pulled it out and installed a 350 hp 396 with a solid cam. the 350 ran circles around it.

Next up is a 68 Camaro, had mini tubs, ladder bar rear, fiberglass front cap. This one had a L88 427 style engine, had a set of Brodix heads. with a 300 shot of NOS it would run a 9:30. A 175 shot on a 406 in the truck in my avatar went a 9:23. This was a side by side comparison, I won. :lol:

I like big motors, just can't afford 'em. If you can't run anything but 23# heads on the small block to do a comparison, then the big chief motors gotta go...

Well heres a comparison too.
73 nova, 396 bored 040 over 12 to 1 compression, 305 magnum hydralic camshaft, small closed chamber oval port heads, 750 double pumper single plane intake. The car ran decent numbers for a heavy car footbraking 7.0's 1/8 this motor had been in this car for 12 plus years with many bottles of nitrous run thru it by the previous owner. Well it finally slung a (stock) rod out one night at the track.
I had been building a smallblock as a replace motor because I knew it wasn't going to be long before the motor was gonna go south and besides I was a smallblock guy before getting this car. So in goes a 350 .060 12 to 1 comp, 305 magnum camshaft and eldebrock aluminum performer rpm heads, 750 carb, single plane intake. I put the motor in the car just knowing it was gonna be faster because of the better heads it had and the fact the car was much lighter now w/ the smalley in place. WRONG, same identical numbers 7'0s 1/8. My point?
I was shifting the big iron between 4800 and 5000 rpm, it was all torque. I was winding up that smalley to 7800 and sometimes 8000 to get same times. Did the small block live 12 years? I dont know I ended up selling the car so I'll never know but I'd bet it didnt. Another comparison.
I am currently driving a heavy all steel 71 nova that has a 496 bbc, it runs 6.0's in the 1/8 shifting around 6200 to 6400 and we got maybe $3500 in this motor nothing special just a torque monster and we run with the lighter tube chassis cars with the high-reving smallblocks that are always oiling the track down when they scatter. Just my opinion but I prefer big blocks now.

Wes,

I also went to
http://www.eldemoniorojo.com/calculator.htm

First was
http://www.wallaceracing.com/hpcalculatorquarter.php

They range from 537 to 687 FWHP to go 10.09 in a 3400 lb car.
I also added 100lbs to one and that is the highest HP #.

I hear what you guys are saying though, and in 3 or 4 years when my 355 is worn out, I think I wil go BBC.

:D 8) :P 8) :)

my last small block i had in my 68 back in 93,it was a 350 2 bolt and it had just some stock x rods,stock bolts and stock crank,i had fuelly heads ported,victor jr intake and a ultradyne solid cam,i ran a 125 shot threw it at super chevy and went 11.4,no biggie the thing was i shifted everytime i raced at 7600,many times i went further when i was trying to blow it or being stupid,that motor lasted me 6 years of hard racing,i sold it and the guy spun the key way and retorqued the crank wrong and it finnaly came apart(1 year after)...some say i just got lucky with that block,i say build a SBC,or at least vote SBC :lol: if not just for my story :D..also it had cheap KB hyperputetics

Thanks guys, my stuff is not that special but it works good with my combination. So where are we, anyone agree or disagree with my previous statement?

I will say if I decide I want 1500 HP you'll see a BB in my camaro. I have to squeeze 1000 out of the SB first just to say I did. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Wait till you see the that one! Got a buddy runs comp with a 318 SB running low 8's in 3000 pound camaro. Putting some of that technology to use in the next one. 14 deg. heads, roller cam bearings, etc...$$$$$$$$$ :cry: :cry: :cry: :shock:

My small block puts out 1586hp at 25% overdriven,it is a 436 SBC in a 3200lb backhalf nova,it is getting a all aluminum 400SBC as we speak with the same components as the 436 and this one is gonna be faster,I will be able to turn this one 50%over on alcohol and not worry,I had a bigblock and it went to a new owner,it was a good boat anchor,Small blocks rule!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am just wondering what kind of times are you turning in your Nova.

I went a 5.28 @ 136mph with a 1.22 60ft in the 1/8th,that was my last pass this year,had about 20 runs on the motor,trying to get the fuel problems straightend out,come to find out the the block was cracked in 2 cylinders and was getting water in those 2 cylinders when it was getting up to tempurature,did a leak down on it hot and it was 60% on those 2 cylinders,so hopefully with the new aliminum motor it will go faster,it will be done soon,gotta get my piston rings and rod bearings and then it goes together,after working on other peoples cars all day its hard to work on my own, Have you run the chevy 2 yet?

I have not got mine running yet cant get it finished I am hoping to have it running by the end of this year. I can not wait to drop the hammer on this one.