By any chance did you check the timing marks on the chain before removing the cam? I wonder if he missed it by a tooth.
Dave

I actually didn't.It crossed my mind that the cam timing was likely off,but at that time,I had only ran the engine with no water in it(very briefly-maybe 30 seconds),and didn't know the head gaskets were blown.By the time I added water(to my oil pan!),and realized the engine had serious issues,I was so disgusted,I just pulled it completely down,and forgot to check the marks until after I pulled the camshaft.

I think it'll be ok with some new gaskets and everything put back in right,but I still can't identify the camshaft.

Yeah,my thoughts exactly.Shame too,as this camshaft/lifters look brand new.I wouldn't be afraid to re-use the lifters with another new camshaft(if they weren't hydraulic).I KNOW I'll catch slack from you guys for this statement(LOL),but honestly,I'm not a big believer in the whole "put 'em back on the same cam lobe" deal.My take on that(and it's been working for years for me)is this:the lifters ROTATE on the cam lobe,so if there's enough wear present for them to need to "match" the wear on the lobe,they need replaced anyway.I have NEVER paid attention as to which lobe a particular lifter went on IF they had no sign of wear,unless I was working on it for someone else,in which case I always kept them in order,just as a general courtesy.If it makes them feel better,I don't mind to do it,but for myself,it's always seemed an unnecessary worry.

Now go ahead-let me have it,LOL.

I do appreciate you guys.

Glen

Heres to you getting it BIG TIME! :lol: :lol: :lol:
Man thats sucks about the motor. Them kinda stories about people screwing over some else just to make a profit or get out form under something they know is bad makes my blood boil.

I swear I dont know how people sleep at night doing shiznit like that.

Have you thought about legal ramblings against this POS?
Go to the scammers section and get Scorpions111 help, he'll persue the sumbitch to the ends of the earth fro ya, right up his alley.

You might not get any money back but you/ scorpion can dam sure make his life a living hell for awhile.

Hell hounds on your trial boy!


Ok I feel better now. 8)

Alright, one more thing - Sense your comtemplating sticking a new cam in, go with a solid roller, you'll be glad you did.



Goodluck and keep us updated, Cp

Coincidentally,I have a good set of 292 Turbo heads already set up for a .600 solid roller.I'd LOVE to trade the Vortec top end I just took off this engine for a good solid roller and lifters(something I can use my heads with as is).Wish I hadn't let the cam and lifters go that matched the heads now!

It's me again!
Sorry if I'm being a "thread hog" here,LOL,but I'm bumping this back up,trying to get it a little exposure and get some help!
I already put all the info in the thread below:

http://forums.racingjunk.com/viewtopic.php?t=12827

Fresh engine,same top end as in this thread,but the heads have been to the shop and shaved,magged,valve job,etc.Same ole problem-red headers!
BTW,I've had people tell me everything from"They all do it,ya just don't notice it unless it's dark" to "All fresh engines do it until they're broke in" to "It's just because the car's not moving and no airflow is getting to the headers"!

Thanks,
Glen

I done some reseach on this, the consensus seems to be too retarded timing.

Other factors of course were spoken but I'd say 90% of the stuff I read was that putting more timing in and having it come in sooner was the cure, that way the combustion event was good and over before it entered the exhaust.


If you got a locked out dizzy ignore the above, if not I'd recurve it so that it's all in by at least 2200 rpm.

Another strong possiblity is a way lean carb and or big vacuum leak.

How does it idle?

Goodluck>Cp

How much initial timing are you running? Try locking the distributor at 36-38 and see if it fixes it.

Vortec heads won't like that much. I do however think timing is an issue as well, When you put in even a mild performance cam it will respond best with a fair amount of initial timing. You need 20-25˚ initial, yet limiting the total to around 32˚ to start with those heads. It MIGHT take a little more, maybe 34˚ max. The more efficient the piston/combustion chamber combination the less it needs for timing. My 461 SB2 use around 29˚ total, my 427 23˚ engine around 40˚. You need to set your distributor up to limit the mechanical advance to about 10˚. Set it up without a vacuum advance hooked up, once you get it dialed in for steady loads you can add the vacuum advance hooked to manifold vacuum IF it needs more timing for large throttle changes, like going idle to WOT.