I guess if you keep an eye on the lash you are ok...but they cause too much damage when they break to risk used ones in my opinion. I screwed up a block that I have since found out was worth a lot of money to chevelle guys....December 1969 casting date 454. :(

PBM/Morels. Crowers, Isky Redzone, they're all tough decisions. I personally like Crowers hipro, that is what i have installed in my new 434" motor. I have a set of Isky Redzones i could have used but they are not offset which i needed. I've used Crower a long time and have had very good luck with them, even before the Hipro with the oiling hole. There is something i've done for over 20 yrs.. It's no secret to a lot of people, it's something that been around for a number of yrs. but not talked about by the professional builders. Howard just introduced it on their solid lifter as a break thru, lifter/cam saver. They must have saw some of the lifters that i modified, or some one else with knowledge. On the top side of the roller lifter i grind a 1/16" wide flat from top to bottom of the lifter OD. that's about .003 depth on the OD. It oils the lifter bores and the rollers at the same time. I would not have posted this except Howards, placed an add in National Dragster, BOMBSHELL, BOMSHELL, break thru to make your cam and lifters survive with todays oil. If anyone doubts what i have just posted i have a set of used BBC lifters out in the shop with 150 passes on them and they look brand new and i can and will take and post pictures of them, the lifter od's look like they haven't been run and the rollers have no wear at all, neither does the cam, although only .730 lift which i can also take pics. of., with 275 lbs spring pressure at the seat and 800 lbs. open. With that said i have available to me in our shop a hole popper EDM which i could put the oiling hole in any set of lifters, but in my opinion the ground flat works just as good and oils the lifter bores. I don't have any experience with oversized and bushed lifter bores, only std size .842 bores. I know that the larger rollers are better, but the engines i build are for people on a low budget, including myself.

Zip.

I'd never buy used lifters but people want my used stuff for 100.00 by all means they can have them :)

The one I had break was a Comp Cams lifter...it also ruined the other lifter it was paired with...I put the other 14 on EBAY and told them it was a partial set due to a failure...and I still got $140 for them!! :shock:. I was honest and they bought them anyhow so it's on them if they have trouble...

Isnt it nuts !!! Unreal what people pay for used lifters ...

I'll run .. dance a jig and even skip to get away from Comps ..

pic
 

http://www.dragracingonline.com/tech...-EZ-Roller.jpg

(EZ-Roller on the left)

I know these ez rolls are the big do do right now but heres my 2 cents.

First off, easy roll? I seriously doubt they have the same friction reducing qualities of a 'true roller' in that aspect, the name is decieving.

Being a industrial mechanic, I seen bushings wearout all the time.
Anytime we can swap out a arcahic bushed set-up with a caged roller or cam follower, we do so, they last forever then.
I know some will argue, hey these are thick bronze bushings living in oil, still, they will wear 20 times quicker than any hardened roller bearing.

IMO> This is no cure all for the problem but rather a band aide and a small one at that. Great idea, just not the fix.

I personally like Zips idea better and will be doing that to mine this winter.


Perhaps the best thing to do is be proactive rather than reactive.

First off make sure the rocker arm geometry is perfect, use the correct spring rate for your cam and stay on top of your valve adjustments.
Make notes on valves that need constant adjusting, they're trying to tell you something. :shock:

Lastly spend that $1000 dollars you didnt spend on the ez rolls and go with a good shaftmount rocker arm set-up. :lol:

JMO>Cp