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Thanks
Thanks for your insight on my question. Regarding the advantages of the longer rod, is there an RPM range where those advantages come into play the most? Low RPM? High RPM? Or is it an improvement across the board?
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hey
well thanks
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i mean a 383 Stroker Crank Not 282..
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a 6 inch rod will add about 15 extra hp.
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hey
wow i didnt know it was that much more..i guess u learn something everyday..
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I would think the long rod would use a shorter,lighter piston,resulting in a lighter rotating assembly, I would use a lighter rod with the lighter piston weight, I would also check to make sure clearancing is properly done with the longer rods. With the lighter pistons I would lighten the crank a lil bit,I would also use new rods as ya dont know how many cycles are on a used rod. A longer rod will use a lighter piston adding life to the rods. Finally, I would shoot for a 1.80 rod ratio, bad lil engine built on a budget.... voila
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Originally Posted by zipper06
Originally Posted by ARUSSELL
The shorter the rod the lower the torque band, If you truely want low end go with a stock 400 rod 5.565
Where you been?, i've been meaning to ask you what do you recomment for piston clearance, on a street driven 406" forged 2618 mat'l piston that will probablly not see more than 7200 RPM. I've got .006 but i think .0045/.005 would have been better. Hopefully i can keep it cool no blk. filler. Right on, i'm building one right now, 406" flattops, eagle 4340 forged crank, 2618 alum. forged flat tops, 5.565 (h) beams and track 1 heads, 850 DP'er, 1.76 PG with pro brake, for my prostreet 1998 stepside Sonoma, i think about 2800 lbs. I believe i can drive it to sonic and the track and run 10.50's with street slicks. Zip. |
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