Re: Won't start
 

...yep check the valves adjustment again.... :wink: :wink:

Overcammed for application.

Just because you put it in Dot to Dot doesnt mean that cam is in @ 106 either. A degree wheel is the only way to fly ...


Just went over this, this weekend, lined up a new chain the same as the old chain suppose to be 110 like the old, came in @ 101. 9 degrees.

Sounds like you put open chamber heads on already low compression piston. It takes 80 to 90psi of compression just to fire an engine. If you have hydrolic lifters and you set them not pumped up they maybe to tight and trying to pump up as oil pressure comes up while your turning over the engine, causing the valve to stay open.

Sorry about the edit, but I wanted to ad that if you timing chain is not on the right centerline, and is retarded to much you can loose 50 to 60 psi.

According to the cam card in the original post, this is a solid lifter cam. Unless the valves were not adjusted with a feelers guage, valve adjustment shouldn't be a problem.

TS1955

I think the valves are set wrong myself and bleeding off to much compression.
I'd verify that you have the valves set right before I did anything else.

Turn the motor over by hand, set the intake lash on each cylinder just as the exhaust valve begins to open, set the exhaust lash just before the intake valve closes.

There are other ways to do it, but this is the most accurate and foolproof method I have found, and I always do mine COLD and set the lash on both valves the same.
For instance on my BBC 496 which has a 722 lift solid roller > I set them cold @ .022 A good friend of mine who used to be a R/D guy for Lunati said this will work on most solid lift and solid rollers cams, it may not work for you but it does for me and should get you in the ball park.
Goodluck, Cp