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-   -   Procomp Rods (https://www.racingjunk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19590)

bjuice 01-22-2008 06:16 PM


Originally Posted by signsbyesa
there's no offense taken here, but i would have recommended
a performance stock set shot peened and balanced, i like using
factory and coming out with a strong motor like i used to build in
high school. but purchasing a set of $200 rods that take 600 hrpwr
for a 300 pwr street engine is not a bad tryout.
no offense bjuice but i left it so when "they" reponded, it would be
obvious who went in that gatagory, not all products perform like
they should and then some perform like it should and like
the more economical stuff too , for my motor i purchased lunati pro-mod
rods, i talked to pat musi and that guy does not shoot down any product,
but tells you what has worked for him, next time realy read the guys
request for an economical street motor, thats all, all we need is love :lol:

we luv ya brother !.....don't matter what Rod you use....lol

cepx111 01-22-2008 08:25 PM


Originally Posted by v8Fiero
how much does a set of GM pink rods go for? they came in a few differant GM vehicles and can easily handle 500 street hp.

The famous small block chevy pink rod was just a factory stock rod that was magnafluxed at the enigine assembly planta and then dotted with some pink paint. I had a set in my first sbc engine I built for my drag car and I got them from JC whitney no less for under 2 hundred bucks, I'm sure it was making close to 450 hp and never had any issues but maybe I was lucky.

><Charles

v8Fiero 01-23-2008 06:40 AM

I thought the pink rods were double shot-peened aswell as magnafluxed from the factory? and came in the LT1 along with some other earlier engines that I cant remember right now. there strong, cheap, proven, american rods for a good street build up.

Sorry, my memory is kind of vague on the details, if Im wrong with anything please correct me.

bjuice 01-23-2008 09:14 AM

the magnaflux is only just checking them for defects such as cracks etc..a quality control issue from factory in this case..IMO

the pink part did originate from the pink paint on the rods..


the late model sealed crate engines used by todays round trackers,has the same pink paint on their camshafts....

Brian

Pwmax 01-24-2008 04:39 AM

I personaly would skip the pro-comps, and run the Scat premiumn pro 4340 i-beams, with the 7/16 cap screws, or the 4340 I-beams with the 3/8 cap screws, if you want to save $50. Personaly, for the money, for what your doing, the pro-i scat I beam, is a good piece. Scat does it right, and is a legit rod and crank place, Pro-comp, is a big parts distributor, that steals peoples designs, has it made in china, and sells it cheap. They are at the top of the R&D chain. RIP off and DUPLICATE. If you want to reward a company for doing that, then buy their rods. If you want to buy a decent properly finished part, that has proven reliability, then buy the scat.

Oh, that paint, whether its pink for gm, or purple for mopar, is worth at least 20hp. I have tried to get the exact color, so I could put pink or a purple dab of paint on certain parts of engines I build, and, it seems they are very picky to the exact color, because, I have yet to make that 20hp from the paint dab. Mopar has it down though, with the "purple shaft" cams. 20+ years of intense marketing, for the "purple shaft" HP cams. What makes it a purple shaft? The small dabs of purple paint, between the lobes, lol. Sorta funny really when you think about it

Frank
Advanced Performance
www.get-ap.com

bjuice 01-24-2008 05:05 AM


Originally Posted by Pwmax
I personaly would skip the pro-comps, and run the Scat premiumn pro 4340 i-beams, with the 7/16 cap screws, or the 4340 I-beams with the 3/8 cap screws, if you want to save $50. Personaly, for the money, for what your doing, the pro-i scat I beam, is a good piece. Scat does it right, and is a legit rod and crank place, Pro-comp, is a big parts distributor, that steals peoples designs, has it made in china, and sells it cheap. They are at the top of the R&D chain. RIP off and DUPLICATE. If you want to reward a company for doing that, then buy their rods. If you want to buy a decent properly finished part, that has proven reliability, then buy the scat.

Oh, that paint, whether its pink for gm, or purple for mopar, is worth at least 20hp. I have tried to get the exact color, so I could put pink or a purple dab of paint on certain parts of engines I build, and, it seems they are very picky to the exact color, because, I have yet to make that 20hp from the paint dab. Mopar has it down though, with the "purple shaft" cams. 20+ years of intense marketing, for the "purple shaft" HP cams. What makes it a purple shaft? The small dabs of purple paint, between the lobes, lol. Sorta funny really when you think about it

Frank
Advanced Performance
www.get-ap.com

Frank my point exactly on the paint .....Pink rods...LOL..

bRIAN

johnracer 01-24-2008 05:13 AM

I built a 355 with a B&M 144 supercharger for a guy "back in the day" and he insisted that it be painted pink. It was a pretty mild deal and I told him that it probably made around 450-500hp. I later heard that he told everyone that it was at least 800. May be something to that pink paint.....

ron19 01-24-2008 05:20 AM


Originally Posted by Pwmax
I personaly would skip the pro-comps, and run the Scat premiumn pro 4340 i-beams, with the 7/16 cap screws, or the 4340 I-beams with the 3/8 cap screws, if you want to save $50. Personaly, for the money, for what your doing, the pro-i scat I beam, is a good piece. Scat does it right, and is a legit rod and crank place, Pro-comp, is a big parts distributor, that steals peoples designs, has it made in china, and sells it cheap. They are at the top of the R&D chain. RIP off and DUPLICATE. If you want to reward a company for doing that, then buy their rods. If you want to buy a decent properly finished part, that has proven reliability, then buy the scat.

Oh, that paint, whether its pink for gm, or purple for mopar, is worth at least 20hp. I have tried to get the exact color, so I could put pink or a purple dab of paint on certain parts of engines I build, and, it seems they are very picky to the exact color, because, I have yet to make that 20hp from the paint dab. Mopar has it down though, with the "purple shaft" cams. 20+ years of intense marketing, for the "purple shaft" HP cams. What makes it a purple shaft? The small dabs of purple paint, between the lobes, lol. Sorta funny really when you think about it

Frank
Advanced Performance
www.get-ap.com

Pwmax,

I got to thinking and before I seen your post, I had already called the guy and arranged to swap out the Pro-comp H-beams (Yes, I ended up buying them) for the Scat I beams for exactly what you said. $50 more, and I get ARP bolts and Scat's reputation instead of who knows what. For my street engine, it should hold up plenty fine. I think I'll compliment this motor build with a Scat cast steel crank as well. I'll have a Scat bottom end and I will be able to sleep at night knowing the next time I hammer down on the throttle, it won't be the last.....

Thanks for the good input guys. I think the Procomps would get by, I'm just wondering after all the research, $200 for the rods, how much to reconn them to bring them into spec's.....hmmm.

bjuice 01-24-2008 05:32 AM


Originally Posted by ron19

Originally Posted by Pwmax
I personaly would skip the pro-comps, and run the Scat premiumn pro 4340 i-beams, with the 7/16 cap screws, or the 4340 I-beams with the 3/8 cap screws, if you want to save $50. Personaly, for the money, for what your doing, the pro-i scat I beam, is a good piece. Scat does it right, and is a legit rod and crank place, Pro-comp, is a big parts distributor, that steals peoples designs, has it made in china, and sells it cheap. They are at the top of the R&D chain. RIP off and DUPLICATE. If you want to reward a company for doing that, then buy their rods. If you want to buy a decent properly finished part, that has proven reliability, then buy the scat.

Oh, that paint, whether its pink for gm, or purple for mopar, is worth at least 20hp. I have tried to get the exact color, so I could put pink or a purple dab of paint on certain parts of engines I build, and, it seems they are very picky to the exact color, because, I have yet to make that 20hp from the paint dab. Mopar has it down though, with the "purple shaft" cams. 20+ years of intense marketing, for the "purple shaft" HP cams. What makes it a purple shaft? The small dabs of purple paint, between the lobes, lol. Sorta funny really when you think about it

Frank
Advanced Performance
www.get-ap.com

Pwmax,

I got to thinking and before I seen your post, I had already called the guy and arranged to swap out the Pro-comp H-beams (Yes, I ended up buying them) for the Scat I beams for exactly what you said. $50 more, and I get ARP bolts and Scat's reputation instead of who knows what. For my street engine, it should hold up plenty fine. I think I'll compliment this motor build with a Scat cast steel crank as well. I'll have a Scat bottom end and I will be able to sleep at night knowing the next time I hammer down on the throttle, it won't be the last.....

Thanks for the good input guys. I think the Procomps would get by, I'm just wondering after all the research, $200 for the rods, how much to reconn them to bring them into spec's.....hmmm.


8) :wink:

poncholvr 01-24-2008 06:14 AM


Originally Posted by signsbyesa
get ready, you are expected to only buy the best, if they have
not heard of it, or they don't cost an arm or a leg, and they come
from china, they have plenty to say, me have not used them but
send you to a site and let you talk to the guys who have some
great rods http://www.catpep.com/catproducts/co...acementRod.asp

even the best will break, check out the forum :wink:

how true ,and right you are-lol
HEY WE HAVE OUR REPUTATIONS NOW lolol

the big me little you $hiit gets old doesn't it


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