good troubleshooter needed part 2
 

I installed the springs and the car did the same thing. I called MSD tech and was told it could be electro magnetic interferance. I disconnected the alternator wire and belt did the car did the same thing. I put foil on the magnetic pick up wire, didn't work either. I am going to try to rev it up to about 4000 and cut the fuel pump when the weather permits, to see if that is causing interferance. I have a spare BBC with a bad crank if all else fails I will build my spare motor and drop it in the car, at least I will know if it is a mechanical problem. because I have had 3 carbs on the motor already. If anybody Knows of a race shop with a excellent reputation in southern calif. send me a PM. By the way the car did this before I changed the cam.

thanks for all your help
steve

Could it possibly be fuel reversion?

Does it have a full exhaust system on it? Could be restricted cat or mufflers....

Have you changed out the rev limit chip in the msd box, I have seen a few of those go bad.

If your stall is to tight it will cause this problem.

As posted before, Whatever you are using for an "ON switch" change it. Painless rocker switch, toggle switch, anything its a 5 or 10 dollar fix!!!! I chased a bad Painless switch for 4 weeks. Racecar idled fine and you could roll into throttle till a certain rpm before it started missing. If you matted the thing it was breaking up terribly from the get go. Would not have believed it till I had it happen to myself.

check your balencer to make sure it hasent spun ,i had a new 1 do it on first run,it was 22 deg. off it took me a 1/2 season to find the problem ,it was a new, bhj :?

what is your valve lash setting?

update
 

The car has been sitting through the winter. But I tried messing with it a little. The converter is a nitrous holeshot that flashes out about 2900 rpm with this motor. The cam is a hydralic roller I have set the preload from 1/2 to 1 turn. My next plan is to borrow a friends distrubeter and wire up a second battery that is just dedicated to running it. That should take all electrical gremlins out of the equation. I have changed the electrical switch. The exaust is 3 inch flowmaster that dumps right before the rear axle. The blancer has not slipped on the elasometer. I have changed the areomotive return fuel system, to a dead head system. I do apprecate all the input from everone, and can't wait to flog my car above 5000rpm. :twisted: :shock: :lol: :twisted:

I'd check engine ground and wire guage on voltage supply and terminals connecting the wiring.